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repair update #308

R

robert lee

Gold Member
I pulled the inter-cooler and cleaned it with lacquer thinner; put new hoses and clamps on; I am thinking the whole time there is no way in h--- this is going to make that much of a differnece. WRONG! I could not believe the difference it made. Will be installing fuel pump, hot wire kit, and rear spoiler next week. I am in the process of installing the Scan Master right now. New chip will be next. Before I cleaned the inter-cooler, the car smoked bad at idle; cleared up alot, but still smokes some; but I haven't driven it more that 30 miles since I bought it. I was wondering if that Scan Master would put the ECM in diagnostic mode so I can adjust the TPS and IAC? Any tips on the Scan Master would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Robert
 
How many miles are on your car?
Did alot of crap come out when you cleaned the intercooler?
 
8289ta said:
How many miles are on your car?
Did alot of crap come out when you cleaned the intercooler?
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80,000 miles, yea it was pretty dirty,the car has only been drove about 200 miles in the last 4 years,the difference in the way it runs is like night and day
 
robert lee said:
80,000 miles, yea it was pretty dirty,the car has only been drove about 200 miles in the last 4 years,the difference in the way it runs is like night and day
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still too much blue smoke might be bad turbo, boost gadge dont seem to work,got the scanmaster up and going,lots of ifs
 
Hi Rob,

Did you get a new scanmaster? It should of came with documentation telling you all the different readings and what the readings should be for the car and then you should be able to tune the TPS and IAC to get it in the correct readings. I had similar issues with TTA #613 that I bought in February, very rough idle, a little smoke, and hesitation on throttle. I cleaned the intercooler, changed the injectors to 60lb injectors and matching chip from Eric at turbotweak and installed a new walbro 340 fuel pump and hot wire kit. Eric's injectors and chip came with instructions on how to set the TPS and IAC and now the car runs awesome and is in tune according to my scanmaster. Great tool to have. I installed mine under the rear view mirror with another rear view mirror install kit, very clean installation. Look under the modifications forum here for my post if you are interested in installing that way.
Good luck with the repairs, you will have it back in shape in no time.
 
Kman1971 said:
Hi Rob,

Did you get a new scanmaster? It should of came with documentation telling you all the different readings and what the readings should be for the car and then you should be able to tune the TPS and IAC to get it in the correct readings. I had similar issues with TTA #613 that I bought in February, very rough idle, a little smoke, and hesitation on throttle. I cleaned the intercooler, changed the injectors to 60lb injectors and matching chip from Eric at turbotweak and installed a new walbro 340 fuel pump and hot wire kit. Eric's injectors and chip came with instructions on how to set the TPS and IAC and now the car runs awesome and is in tune according to my scanmaster. Great tool to have. I installed mine under the rear view mirror with another rear view mirror install kit, very clean installation. Look under the modifications forum here for my post if you are interested in installing that way.
Good luck with the repairs, you will have it back in shape in no time.
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yea got a new 2.1,still a rookie but i will figure it out ;;;; sooner or later
 
I got this from GNtype.com, it's a great tip. Correct TPS setting can make huge difference in performance.

Reinstall the intercooler and intake tube. Now is a good time to set your Throttle Position Sensor (TPS). The TPS is the little gadget on the passenger side of the throttle body that tells the ECM the angle of the throttle blade. It attached by two screws in a slots that allow you to tilt and change the angle of the sensor. The easiest way to adjust the sensor is to find someone with a scan tool and adjust for 0.42-0.44 volts at idle and 4.75-4.9 volts at WOT.
Click to expand...

Try some breathers on your valve covers to keep from putting blow bye in the turbo inlet, ending up in the intercooler and can make it all the way up to the throttle body. This can cause the up pipe and hoses to get slick making for crappy seal and can blow off under less than 5 psi of boost. I've had this happen It takes a while for it to happen, but it can over time. It's not emissions legal to remove the valve cover tube to turbo inlet, but that's up to your local laws.
 
RatFink said:
I got this from GNtype.com, it's a great tip. Correct TPS setting can make huge difference in performance.



Try some breathers on your valve covers to keep from putting blow bye in the turbo inlet, ending up in the intercooler and can make it all the way up to the throttle body. This can cause the up pipe and hoses to get slick making for crappy seal and can blow off under less than 5 psi of boost. I've had this happen It takes a while for it to happen, but it can over time. It's not emissions legal to remove the valve cover tube to turbo inlet, but that's up to your local laws.
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there is a breather on the left vavle cover,the hose from the turbo to intercooler was in bad shape with lots of oil on the inside,the turbine wheel looked okay, the iac reads oo in park and drive,emissions here only looks at the cat,gas cap and what comes out the tail pipe
 
robert lee said:
there is a breather on the left vavle cover,the hose from the turbo to intercooler was in bad shape with lots of oil on the inside,the turbine wheel looked okay, the iac reads oo in park and drive,emissions here only looks at the cat,gas cap and what comes out the tail pipe
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what bothers me the most is the smoke,drive it down the road and it stops completely , let it idle for 5 min and it will kill every mosquito in 5 miles, so unless there is a big bug problem in ohio i doubt i will haul that car up there if i dont fix it
 
robert lee said:
what bothers me the most is the smoke,drive it down the road and it stops completely , let it idle for 5 min and it will kill every mosquito in 5 miles,
Click to expand...

Turbo needs rebuilt...classic symptoms.

as others mentioned you don't need to put the car in field service mode to set the TPS and you definitely don't want it field service mode for proper IAC operation. The IAC is controlled and commanded by the ECM and by in large a non serviceable part. And if there is any adjusting it's done via minimum throttle position and TPS adjustments together,letting ECM react to your changes.

But, for reference, if you wish to force the ECM into FS mode you paper clip short A and B terminals and then start it. It will start hard because it fully extends the stepper motor in the IAC and it locks the timing at 15*.

It is not reccomended that the vehicle be driven much in FS mode
 
Did you check the turbo for shaft play? In and out / up and down? You might find it sloppy. If so yank it off and send it out to John Craig for a rebuild. http://www.limitengineering.com/
There is a sticky on the forum how to check and adjust your sensors as well. The Scanmaster will help you tune the car big time. Ohm out your plug wires and make sure those are all good as well. Takes some time but as you see the little things you do and the more you do the car will run better and better! :)
 
PhillyTurboSix said:
Did you check the turbo for shaft play? In and out / up and down? You might find it sloppy. If so yank it off and send it out to John Craig for a rebuild. http://www.limitengineering.com/
There is a sticky on the forum how to check and adjust your sensors as well. The Scanmaster will help you tune the car big time. Ohm out your plug wires and make sure those are all good as well. Takes some time but as you see the little things you do and the more you do the car will run better and better! :)
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thanks for the info guys,it looks like a simple bolt on?also any upgrades recommended for the turbo? is the stock turbo a gt 60 ?the confusion over the fs mode came from tmi ,"too much info" i understand now the scanmaster is doing that in a roundabout way.i could always play a soundtrack of a burnout, everybody would see the smoke and say WOW! lol, thanks again for the info
 
Alot of the things you have done I had to do to my car, like cleaning out the intercooler with lacquer thinner, did mine 4 times to make sure it was clean.I replaced my stock turbo with a TA49 which is a upgrade from stock. It looks stock. Got it from Kirbans, and I think it came from limit engineering in arizona, because they drop shipped it to me. You can look at it on Kirbans web site. They also have the stock turbo as well. Or if your turbo is going bad you might want to sent it to limit engineering and get it rebuilt as Jim said earlier. Good luck.
 
TTA984 said:
Alot of the things you have done I had to do to my car, like cleaning out the intercooler with lacquer thinner, did mine 4 times to make sure it was clean.I replaced my stock turbo with a TA49 which is a upgrade from stock. It looks stock. Got it from Kirbans, and I think it came from limit engineering in arizona, because they drop shipped it to me. You can look at it on Kirbans web site. They also have the stock turbo as well. Or if your turbo is going bad you might want to sent it to limit engineering and get it rebuilt as Jim said earlier. Good luck.
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did you change the turbo yourself ? any major problems? pros and cons of the upgrade? thanks for the feedback
 
Turbo isnt hard to install, make sure you have no oil leaks at the oil intake tube as well as the oil drain. You should use new gaskets. My turbo went on much easier when I left the intercooler bolts loose until I got it in place.


Ah yes upgrade, well I can't tell you that yet, because I had the motor yanked out and had everything checked or replaced because I had blown headgaskets. Had the rear main seal replaced as well as a lot of other things. Hope to get it in a couple of weeks.
 
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Does anybody have any working knowledge of the torbo wastegate linkage? Should you not be able to move it by hand with the engine shut off?
 
Is it adjustable? See some threads and a nut in the middle of it? Is the vacuum line going to it ok? There is a special vaccum line for it that goes 3 places. Check to make sure that line is ok. Maybe even snap a pic and post it up if I'm off track with my answers.
 
My car did not even have the stock hoses on it when I first got it. It had one hose running from turbo to wastegate and by passing the waste gate solenoid. This causes it to have low boost.

Try to post some pics to see what yours looks like.
 
Yes the wastegate is very tight. You should still be able to move it as long as it is bolted down to something.

Bypass the wastegate solenoid and run a hose straight from the compressor housing to the wastegate with an RJC boost controller in the middle.
 
in the process of pulling the turbo, i checked the oil drain first@ clean as a whistle ,( what a bitch to get off ) pulled the air inlet and up and down play not to bad but it moved at least a 1/4 inch in and out ,also pretty dirty,i may just buy a new one instead of a rebuild it looks like its been off before , will post some pictures soon
 
I recommend getting a new wastegate (if not a new TA-49 all together) while your in the process of rebuilding. A way to know if your actuator is stock is that it shouldn't be adjustable, though it could have been modded over the years. Also, you can take a bike pump with a gauge hooked up and attach a hose to the wastegate and then start pumping it, stock one will crack at around 12 psi. The newer actuators that come on new style turbos have whats called HD actuators (HD for heavy duty) if you test one of these they will start to move at 18 psi or so. Attaching a link to a resource that can help you with new parts. Scroll down the page, He has two options for you.

http://www.cottonsperformance.com/products.asp?cat=95
 
RatFink said:
I recommend getting a new wastegate (if not a new TA-49 all together) while your in the process of rebuilding. A way to know if your actuator is stock is that it shouldn't be adjustable, though it could have been modded over the years. Also, you can take a bike pump with a gauge hooked up and attach a hose to the wastegate and then start pumping it, stock one will crack at around 12 psi. The newer actuators that come on new style turbos have whats called HD actuators (HD for heavy duty) if you test one of these they will start to move at 18 psi or so. Attaching a link to a resource that can help you with new parts. Scroll down the page, He has two options for you.

http://www.cottonsperformance.com/products.asp?cat=95
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it has a adjustable wastegate and i did get it to move, took a good bit of effort ,is the ta-49 a turbo ? didnt see it , if not , what turbo would you recommend ? thanks for the info and link
 
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