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Who sell's..

you can make your own. Its just a regular tie down strap ... Ive got one new in a bag somewhere. ill look an see where it came from
 
I may have one too, but I may have given it away.

I know what you trying to accomplish but it's the "mickey mouse" fix.

Of the hundreds of items I've purchased for my car, the poly motor mounts are in the top 5 of what I feel were worth every penny.


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I bought both, L&R, I considered just the one side but after reading about, and seeing them in person, installing just one leaves the engine higher on one side....and it's noticeable.
 
Robert,
Here's an attached picture of one style of anchor that I made. I used a turnbuckle instead of a ratchet strap. It worked well and I adjusted it so it just "loaded" the driverside. It worked pretty well, but I always was suspicious that it caused false knock.

I eventually went to a ratchet strap for awhile too.

Then I went to the H&R mounts and solved the problem alltogether.


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Last edited:
WS6 said:
Robert,
Here's an attached picture of one style of anchor that I made. I used a turnbuckle instead of a ratchet strap. It worked well and I adjusted it so it just "loaded" the driverside. It worked pretty well, but I always was suspicious that it caused false knock.

I eventually went to a ratchet strap for awhile too.

Then I went to the H&R mounts and solved the problem alltogether.


..
Click to expand...
I have a turnbuckle style on there now, figured it was better than nothing..
Do you have any vibration with the poly mount's ?
 
There is some vibration....nothing like I was expecting or was told I should expect.

Now, Using the poly trans mount made an almost unbearable vibration, but I run a sphon crossmember. I eventually found a rubber trans mount and that solved the problem.

Apparently as I understand from Paul at H&R, there are some earlier generation poly mounts that have an extremly stiff durometer number that transmitted drivtrain noise and vibration, and that these ones now have a softer poly durometer number.

They are pricey for sure....because they are worth it.


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Thank's Rich, how far did you have to jack the motor to change them? I'm starting to i will have to put wingnut's on everything:crazy:
BTW is that strut tower brace made for a V-6 ? i thought they installed different from your pic...
 
robert lee said:
Thank's Rich, how far did you have to jack the motor to change them? I'm starting to i will have to put wingnut's on everything:crazy:
BTW is that strut tower brace made for a V-6 ? i thought they installed different from your pic...
Click to expand...

x2 the ones ive seen actually attach to the strut tower ? look like this one could damage the fenders ?
 
I changed mine when I had the engine out, so I'm not much help as far as changing them while the engine's still in the car.

That strut tower brace is for a TPI car, and it's the BMR piece.
 
tta299 said:
x2 the ones ive seen actually attach to the strut tower ? look like this one could damage the fenders ?
Click to expand...

No, that's how they install, that whole area is the strut tower,double walled and all.
It ties the front sheetmetal cage together...been running one on the convertible since I've owned it.

Ironically I've removed the one from the TTA and left it off as it was becoming such a common thing for that motor to come out.....how sad is that?
 
WS6 said:
No, that's how they install, that whole area is the strut tower,double walled and all.
It ties the front sheetmetal cage together...been running one on the convertible since I've owned it.

Ironically I've removed the one from the TTA and left it off as it was becoming such a common thing for that motor to come out.....how sad is that?
Click to expand...

u ever heard abt third gen k members messing up struts ?
 
tta299 said:
u ever heard abt third gen k members messing up struts ?
Click to expand...

Yep...because people use them (strut tower) for coil over conversion K members.

Our car's K member still uses the coil spring to carry the car's weight. The strut tower is not quite strong enough to do that.

The 4th gen changes all that to a factory coil /strut assembly...designed to carry the load and control movement.

I believe the "newer" tubular K members for 3rd gen cars can be had as "coil over conversion" and they address the problem by putting an upper mount to bear the weight of the coil over shock.
 
Yes, yes I did.....when you torque them down (if you can do that with engine in) they really seem to "squish" but it's okay. They're suppose to.


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I'm going to try my best not to pull the motor although i think i have a leak in the pass. header, who know's in the end it might be easier, but it would suck to do all that work for those two thing's.... btw the motor has less than 1200 (hundred) miles since rebuild.
 
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