UPDATE.

[TurboJoe89TTA]

- I talked my Tech into staying with the current chip ( Thrasher 92 ) for now. In future I will buy Eric's chip.

- I called Red at Quad Air. Super nice guy that is fun to talk too. He swears by the Volt Booster. He says everyone has there own opinion. He explained the booster activates after 10 psi. and adds 1.0 to 1.5 extra volts. Adds 15% more fuel pressure at WOT and opens the injectors faster along with a few other things. My tech always loved the idea that the lights will brighten when the device is in use for night driving. Red told me it would not hurt anything. He is actually out of stock now. He added OUR alternators were actually made for trucks. I am just relying the message.

- Red also said the Adj. Fuel regulator is very reliable and efficent as we know.

- Stainless steel BUNG is for the LM1 test. My tech told me this is the most accurate way to test the Fuel/Air ratio.

- I am just keeping this forum informed of my experience. Everyone makes mistakes and I admit I did with the exhaust. Big costly mistake. I do love my new exhaust though But the bung still ....

- I am learning more about the TTA everyday. Thanks....

 

[SouthBaySurfer]

TurboJoe,
Where in New York are you located? I'm in Suffolk County on Long Island.
Jim

 

[DaveGershon]

- I talked my Tech into staying with the current chip ( Thrasher 92 ) for now. In future I will buy Eric's chip.

- I called Red at Quad Air. Super nice guy that is fun to talk too. He swears by the Volt Booster. He says everyone has there own opinion. He explained the booster activates after 10 psi. and adds 1.0 to 1.5 extra volts. Adds 15% more fuel pressure at WOT and opens the injectors faster along with a few other things. My tech always loved the idea that the lights will brighten when the device is in use for night driving. Red told me it would not hurt anything. He is actually out of stock now. He added OUR alternators were actually made for trucks. I am just relying the message.

- Red also said the Adj. Fuel regulator is very reliable and efficent as we know.

- Stainless steel BUNG is for the LM1 test. My tech told me this is the most accurate way to test the Fuel/Air ratio.

- I am just keeping this forum informed of my experience. Everyone makes mistakes and I admit I did with the exhaust. Big costly mistake. I do love my new exhaust though But the bung still ....

- I am learning more about the TTA everyday. Thanks....

Joe,
Thanks for sharing.
- Dave

 

[72firebird]

- I talked my Tech into staying with the current chip ( Thrasher 92 ) for now. In future I will buy Eric's chip.

- I called Red at Quad Air. Super nice guy that is fun to talk too. He swears by the Volt Booster. He says everyone has there own opinion. He explained the booster activates after 10 psi. and adds 1.0 to 1.5 extra volts. Adds 15% more fuel pressure at WOT and opens the injectors faster along with a few other things. My tech always loved the idea that the lights will brighten when the device is in use for night driving. Red told me it would not hurt anything. He is actually out of stock now. He added OUR alternators were actually made for trucks. I am just relying the message.

- Red also said the Adj. Fuel regulator is very reliable and efficent as we know.

- Stainless steel BUNG is for the LM1 test. My tech told me this is the most accurate way to test the Fuel/Air ratio.

- I am just keeping this forum informed of my experience. Everyone makes mistakes and I admit I did with the exhaust. Big costly mistake. I do love my new exhaust though But the bung still ....

- I am learning more about the TTA everyday. Thanks....

Chip idea sounds good.
I still wouldn't get the volt booster, of course someone is going to talk highly of their own product. The TTA fuel pump is very weak and it's not going to last very long with the extra voltage. If you're worried about needing more fuel then upgrade the fuel pump to a Walbro. For the injector thing that doesn't make sense to me because the injectors are going to be getting the fuel under the same pressure they would without the volt booster so unless the pressure is dieing off up top then it wouldn't matter.

Adj FPR is fine, it's a good idea to have one if you plan on running more boost

He's right on the LM1 being the best way to read the air fuel ratio, however with a pretty much stock car it's a little unnecessary and reading the stock narrow band with a scanmaster will work fine.

 

[TurboJoe89TTA]

Thanks.

 

[89MNTTA]

For the injector thing that doesn't make sense to me because the injectors are going to be getting the fuel under the same pressure they would without the volt booster so unless the pressure is dieing off up top then it wouldn't matter.

I'm not sure I agree with you there. Any time you boost the voltage (of just about anything), it will speed the motor up to a certain degree. It isn't much different than an electric motor running at 60 hertz normally, and then ramping up the hertz to say 64.....it has no choice but to speed up the motor.

Here's one example of what I'm trying to say. I had my electric water pump and electric fan running after the engine was shut off to cool the engine down. At that point we put my battery booster on there and turned the setting to 'start'.........right then I could hear the change in speed of the electric fan.

So, I wouldn't find it hard to believe that by having the voltage booster would make the injectors operate a little bit quicker, and could increase the fuel pressure a little bit as well.

Just my opinion.....what do you think Jared?

 

[Sweet6]

Instead of getting the LM-1, I would do a Power Logger and LC-1. The savings of the LC-1 over the LM-1 will pay for a good chunk of the Power Logger. My $.02. :cowboy:

 

[72firebird]

I'm not sure I agree with you there. Any time you boost the voltage (of just about anything), it will speed the motor up to a certain degree. It isn't much different than an electric motor running at 60 hertz normally, and then ramping up the hertz to say 64.....it has no choice but to speed up the motor.

Here's one example of what I'm trying to say. I had my electric water pump and electric fan running after the engine was shut off to cool the engine down. At that point we put my battery booster on there and turned the setting to 'start'.........right then I could hear the change in speed of the electric fan.

So, I wouldn't find it hard to believe that by having the voltage booster would make the injectors operate a little bit quicker, and could increase the fuel pressure a little bit as well.

Just my opinion.....what do you think Jared?

well the pressure to the injectors is limited by the fuel pressure regulator on the fuel rail. So as long as the fuel pump is supplying enough volume to meet that pressure than flowing more isn't going to help. I might be missing a variable here like the fluid velocity but I haven't taken Fluids yet. Either way though you shouldn't be running the injectors over 80% duty cycle anyways and if you're running under that then they'll be fine. If you're running more than 80% then you should upgrade injectors.

 

[Quiky One]

I'm not sure I agree with you there. Any time you boost the voltage (of just about anything), it will speed the motor up to a certain degree. It isn't much different than an electric motor running at 60 hertz normally, and then ramping up the hertz to say 64.....it has no choice but to speed up the motor.

Here's one example of what I'm trying to say. I had my electric water pump and electric fan running after the engine was shut off to cool the engine down. At that point we put my battery booster on there and turned the setting to 'start'.........right then I could hear the change in speed of the electric fan.

So, I wouldn't find it hard to believe that by having the voltage booster would make the injectors operate a little bit quicker, and could increase the fuel pressure a little bit as well.

Just my opinion.....what do you think Jared?

I see your points but Julio has run a 10.57 with NO VOLT BOOSTER on a Walbro 307 and maybe others have run low 11's. I just do not see the true need. I wouldnt want to bandaid and issue with a booster..

:read: :whistle:

 

[89MNTTA]

I see your points but Julio has run a 10.57 with NO VOLT BOOSTER on a Walbro 307 and maybe others have run low 11's. I just do not see the true need. I wouldnt want to bandaid and issue with a booster..

:read: :whistle:

Fair enough! :thumbup:

I was just using some knowledge I have from work to make some justifications, I appreciate the responses! (Jared & Quicky)