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The *NEW* LS swap project

:meanttosay: Didn't mean to offend. It was more for making people smile, and to put things into perspective with a little humor to boot.
 
Oh, I understand, and I took it with the humor intended....it was just a waaaayyyy out there analogy.

and FWIW, it's really, really hard to offend me.
 
It's fun working on two cars at the same time huh? Having two TTAs at the same time for over 3 yrs i'm lucky if i can afford a happy meal... oh well, i like fried bologna...:teehee:
 
The "freebird"

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The" Blackbird" ( hey,I like that!)

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The "topless bird"

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Blackbird's empty bay.

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One of a few big boxes of parts, extras and alike..

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The 'vert's empty bay.

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And most of the T-5 parts...

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It's fun working on two cars at the same time huh? Having two TTAs at the same time for over 3 yrs i'm lucky if i can afford a happy meal... oh well, i like fried bologna...:teehee:


That is the worst part....I find myself unable to focus on one or the other. I will literally be working on one and go for a tool and something ,then the other one catches my attention and I start working on that one!

It's like I'm a 5 yr old at Chucky-Cheeze.... I've been going full bore on both to take advantage of the weather. Even though it's heated in the garage I like working with the overhead door open. I'm afraid I'll run out of steam in January and walk away from both till May....but I hope not.


I'm going to Summit racing in Tallmadge this weekend(hopefully) and I've got a list for both cars going. They've got some headers for the LS swap I think I can use and I'll need those hanging on the mock-up motor/trans to build a Y-pipe around the 4L80e.

And on the 4L80e....because it's not the "go-to" auto for 3rd gen LS swaps there are NO cross members available. But I have a Spohn cross member for the 200R4 and hopefully...the mount will be within 2" of each other's dimensions(depending on whose website you believe). With some adjustable engine mounts, maybe even pusher fans, a reverse rotation supercharger I'll be able to move the engine forward enough to make everything happy with very little modification the cross member.
 
Allright.....this is the latest....and it is by nature controversial,so call it what you want.

I'm building a dual pump out of the factory hanger, and with that comes the distinct possibility that I will suffer pump(s) failure. I'm not quite ready to go external with a sumped tank so I needed easier access to the top of the tank.
I cut a hole....made a "ring" out of 1X1/8" bar stock,made a matching cover out .060 steel....welded to ring to the floor and attached the top plate with 18 10#32 button head fasteners that thread into the 1/8" bar stock.

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My racetronix dual pump kit should be here today, but that'll be awhile before I get around to figuring out how to make it a 8 AN supply and 6 AN return out of the factory hanger. I need to find some low profile 90* bulkhead fittings or something.
 
Very nice and well thought out mod! At least it's not a hack job like I've seen a few times over the years. This mod will surly make you life a whole lot easier in the end. Keep up the great work!
 
Thank you...I've spent hours on end reading dozens and dozens of threads about this mod over on 3rd gen. Now taking into consideration the "valid" objections I chose to build in a couple designs to address the common complaint of weakening of the floor pan as it may or may not be a stressed section of the F body.One was to radius the corners of the opening,the other was to weld in the reinforcement ring.
Now, the common complaint of us weakening the integrity of the floor pan with hole should be viewed in the context of what GM has already done with welded in upper shock mounts AND the obvious huge hole they put in the floorpan to accommodate the shifter on stick cars. And the only thing tying that hole together? A rubber accordion boot.
The only documented failure of the floor pan seemed to stem from the opening being cut so far forward that it extended over the backseat roll making it a 2 axis opening.

I'm confident it will be fine.
 
^^^^^^^
Right you are Rich, the fac. would do that mod in a heartbeat if they thought it would move the car down the line 30 sec. faster.. people need to remember that the fac. way isn't always what you think, they cut corners every chance they get.
 
Just about ready to throw the tank back up and here's what I ended up with for fuel supply, I retrofitted a GN double pumper kit to the F-body hanger, complete with dual hotwire kit. Quite a bit of re pining of some of the connectors and remaking the pump harness. These are 2 Walbro 294Ms which is the replacement for the 340M. Made a coupler stop for the top out of nut, but came out great I think. harness is pretty slick with breakout plugs for each pump so I can swap their job, meaning one is the primary then the second will come online at 4PSI via a Hobbs switch. Also has a breakout status pigtail to wire up 2 L.E.Ds to watch each pump as they are running.



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Yes, 340m and 294m and aeromotive's 340 stealth pump.... along with a hotwire kit you can support some serious HP.
 
Hmm... A procharger on a LS2 408 stroker AND you have a fuel pump access, if that car was a H/T it would be the best thing since peanut butter.. sounds like you are going to hurt some feelings... but anyhow i was asking about the F.Pump's because i don't think many have tried that on a f-body.
 
Truth be told, I should have held out for a Hardtop car, but since I'm deleting the air I thought it would make it as cool as possible on hot summer days....I may fab up something to reinforce the SFCs, maybe tie them into the crossmember,I'll see how it goes.

On the fuel pump...I've spent the last 6 weeks taking in and talking to everyone who knows more about this than I, So somewhere around 550 HP there becomes a need to supply more fuel in a forced induction car, typically one would run a HiPo in tank pump then plumb in an external inline pump to come online staged. Some guys go with a big external or twin externals, and some go with twin intank pumps, the second being staged(as I did). My original plan was to sump the tank and run a Holley dominator twin pump, but I just couldn't bring myself to make it too race car like with a howling fuel pump.
So with Jason's advice I was going to put a bulkhead fitting in the tank, run a 255LPH in tank as a main then sister up an inline bosch 44 staged by a Hobbs switch.
Then I came across an old thread on TGO where this fella built an intank dual system using the factory hanger using Racetronix's GN dual pump system. That made sense to me, but as we all know pump failure is likely and 3rd gens aren't a 20 minute tank drop experience.So that's why the access panel....now, if this proves to have pump failure too often then I also went ahead and had a -10AN bulk head fitting welded on the lowest left hand corner of the tank so as to at least give me the option to bail on the intank system and plumb in an external.
 
Something else I've been doing along side the LS conversion...it got moved up to the top of the list because my trailer storage space went away and it's parked outside. So I need to get the '92 Convertible finished and load it on the trailer and park it all in the garage.

I took the fresh 355 from the '89 black car, opened it up, checked all their work. Then I upgraded the cam to a mild 212/218 dur cam with .495 lift.
Then I had a spare set of Vortec heads done up with new springs and screw in studs to handle the higher lift. Got a SDPC lower intake for Vortec heads for use with the TPI.
I also had Janis go through the 4L60(700R4) and do the usual upgrades with a 2200 stall lock up convertor.
I slipped it all down in this morning and hopefully within a few weeks I can squirrel away some time to button it up. Besides Tuned Performance isn't done with the new chip so I can't start it up. I also added a hotwire kit for good measure.

I was always told that you can't put the engine/tranny in together on a 3rd gen, but I did a couple times on the TTA and it worked fine as long as you have a "tilter" and you jack the rear of the car way up and I let the air out of the tires on the front so the whole car looks like a kneeling camel.

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Looks great Rich! Been following the thread since day 1. Thanks for posting. Curious, what do you expect the car to trap in 1/4 mile? Wish my car was black :thumbup:

Joe
 
Oh I don't know...I'd be happy to see it trap at 130ish in a 10.5-10.70 range...I'd consider that success. And I'd expect that on a conservative boost of 8-10psi
 
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