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Stock chip

I never understood the reasoning for bringing a TTA back to the dealer. How many people in that dealer actually worked on one? Not too many people know the turbo buick motors. Find yourself someone who knows what they are doing with it. I will bet that won't be at the dealership.
 
what he said F a dealer but its your car ... I tell people to change do mods ill do the tuning ...
 
Nobody to go to in Lafayette. Asked Scott Kelly but got no response and have had no luck with any questions I have posted. The dealer has made calls to Buick engineers and has not charged me for his services.
I would still like to obtain an old chip.
 
My dad was a Buick and Pontiac dealer for 20 years... In all those years I think we had 5 GNs and 2 TTA's one of which was mine. That was so long ago, I kinda doubt that anyone at a GM dealer is still in the "know" on these LC2 drivetrains. I hope the best for you, I can't imagine that a stock chip would be preferable, but I also don't know what your mechanic is trying to find or do.

I do know that my chip and other GN chips were interchangeable as me and my brother and friends would swap to find out, so maybe you could get a stock GN chip if all else comes up zippo.
 
I have the stock program, could burn it onto a chip and send it to you, it will not be in the plastic carrier though, those are getting very difficult to find. So you'd need to pull your TT chip out of the plastic holder, you just have to be very careful not to bend the pins. $25 to PPal if you have no spare other chips you don't want, if you have a spare chip of any kind, send it to me and I'll put the stock image on it for free. Make sure its got the numbers 2732A printed on the chip, that is the one our cars and Turbo Buicks use. I can erase it and reprogram it. Send it in the plastic carrier then you don't have to fool with removing it too.


I would not put a stock chip in and run it with any amount of boost, 22+ degrees of timing on today's gas is a recipe for disaster.

BTW, what is the issue you are having?
 
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I have yet to hear of a bad TT chip


I've had one....my first 6.0 chip had a no start problem. I know this car inside and out and it never did anything weird before the chip change.

Eric sent a new chip and it started right up.
 
Like these guys said don't put a stock chip in the car they were horrible. 89 technology was the worst. If you want to rule out the chip just order one from Eric at TurboTweak Home and if anything, his chip might help your issues. But I also would get the car out of the dealer. They too don't have a clue what to do with these cars but make them worse. Just go on line and find some local car shows you can go to and find some turbo Buick guys and ask them where they go. Must be someone in decent distance that can look at the car for you. All the dealer is going to do is beat the piss out of the car they don't have a clue how to work on.
 
I asked Erick at Turbo Tweaks and he said that there was nothing programed in the chip that would cause the car to not start when hot. Sense a number of you have a lot of knowledge, I will fill you in on what the car is doing. The car starts and runs all day long untill you turn it off. When hot the car cranks but no start. I replaced crank sensor, Ignition control module, coil pack and checked fuel pressure, checked cam sensor for loose components and 3 different ECM's. I forgot, I also put a new temp. sensor for the ECM. Still no start when hot. I unpluged the harness at the temp sensor and plugged in a new temp. sensor(room temp) and it started wright up when hot.
The dealer found that the car starts in open loop but will not go into closed loop when hot. Not sure if I got that reversed or not. The other thing he found is when a scan tool is pluged in, it will not work when the engine is hot and running. When youstart when cold the scanner scans untill it reaches operating temp.
The engineers at Buick suggested the chip be checked against an original.
 
Have you tried replacing the starter? They get heat soaked and then when you stop the motor and then crank the heat from operating the car, heat has soaked the starter. When the starter cools off they will then begin to start operate normally. This happened to me, so I know it happens.

Your other issue with the dealer's scan tool having glitches, maybe could be their scan tool.
 
When you say it does not start you mean it still turns over right?? Just wont fire up. Because if the engine will not turn over when hot Shaun could be correct here.
 
yeah sounds like the starter selinod is getting hot ... relocated the one on my 64 impala for same reason
 
The car turns over like crazy but wont start when Hot. As I said I disconnected the wire harness from the temp sensor for the ECM when the car was hot and pluged in a cold temp. sensor and the car started right up when hot. I heated the temp sensor up by placing it in 180 degree water while still connected to the harness and the car would not start.
Therefore it can't be a starter problem it can only be electrical.
 
Wow nice diagnostic test on placing the sensor in hot water. I'd try an ecm swap, cause I don't have a clue why a temp sensor reading hot would not allow the engine to start.
 
I don't know if this helps. We recently went through the same frustration with a GM truck, it was a vats problem. Tech threw a pile of parts at the problem, just like you mentioned above. Replaced the ignition cylinder and new GM keys problem solved. There are a lot of resistor keys that are bad quality, and foul the computer into thinking there is a security problem.

Good Luck
 
Sounds like the starter works but will not fire up....unplugging temp sensor sends a -40 signal... Still starts with a sensor at room temp plugged in but one heated to 180 and PCM won't send spark ? Or fuel ? Need to check .Have you tried starting it with gas pedal to floor ? Or half way down ? Colder the temp , the more fuel it takes to start and visa versa. Curious .... Try heating the spare sensor to 180'when the engine is cold and see it it starts....sounds like it won't.
 
Wonder if the signal wire to PCM from temp sensor is partially grounded . It would cause lower resistance in the the circuit and fool the PCM to thinking it was overheating especially when adding the temp sensor which creates low resistance in the circuit the hotter it is ? Need to check the scan master temp when cold against the ambient temp or outside thermometer to see if they are close.
 
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