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Someone Has Wrong Car Number Build

Well I just looked at the list of vin # 's you sent me and it still looks like my car is # 557. Thanks for the info tta dan.
 
By the way, I just got my UMI subframe connectors in yesterday. They are weld in's. Does the car have to be level on all 4 wheels. Like on a drive up style hoist ?.
 
Yes. Not only to 'load the chassis but also for access. Or if a lift isn't available support the car at the rear axle and at each front lower control arm. Before raising the car, measure and record distance from wheel well lip to ground at all four corners. And after raising measure again and insure all four corners were raised equally. For example: If on the ground you had LF-25.25", RF-25", LR-26.5", RR-26.25" and after you raised you got LF-35.25", RF-35.5", LR-36.5", RR-36".... You'd have to lower the RF 0.5" and raise the RR 0.25" to get an even 10" lift. It doesn't matter how much you raise the car as long as it's and equal amount at each corner. And you must take measurements in the same spot you are going to raise the car. Also if you are doing this yourself not only do you want plan where you are going to make your welds and sand down not only the paint but the galvanized coating of the sheetmetal. And when you do weld wear a real filtered air mask to insure you do not breath the fumes of welding on/near galvanized metal. I have the Hotchkis kit and you can really feel the difference the reinforcement makes.
 
That's GREAT info ,, especially about the breathing filter. Didn't know all that was that critical. Like the old saying goes " quality doesn't cost ,,, it pays off ".
 
Last question if you don't mind. I'm torn between QA-1 or bilstien rear shocks. Opinions appreciated. Thanks in advance !!
 
Looks like I'm going going with the Bilstien shocks. Just hope they last more than a couple years from what I'm hearing. I have the stock springs still on . We'll see.
 
Forgot to mention it was great meeting up with Kidsixpack at Bakers last car show of the season. Perfect weather also. Thanks for everyone's input here....... Keep Flying Birds..
 
One more thing to think about... your stock springs are just that, stock and have some miles on them. I put Eibach springs (3/4" lowering) in a 89 Formula and they weren't any stiffer than the WS6 springs but I did notice an improvement in handling and a more confident control feeling. Note that springs can maintain their ride height but loose their spring rate as they age.
 
Good point , I think a year or so after I bought the car new I pulled the rear shocks off and installed air shocks. It was nice because I could control the height and keep the ass end up a little more back in the olden days when cars looked cool with a little height in the rear. But now that I'm building the car faster it's time to put down some traction to the Mickeys. Plus it obviously didn't handle Michigan's nasty ass roads. Your right ,, any more input on what springs to check out ?. This car is mainly a street ride. I do plan on taking it to the strip after I finish the rest of the mods with a good tune. But just to see what kind of time it's doing. That's all ....
 
I never took my tta to the track, but on my 89 Formula 350 the Eibachs did fine at the track, biggest improvement besides slicks came from drag shocks (inexpensive Summit's). In order to 'plant' the tires the shock has to extend easily and compress moderately. This lets the rear move down away from the body and 'plant' the tires. Of course anything you can do to get the front to lift helps too. Remove the links to the front swaybar, you'll see a difference. At Englishtown Raceway in NJ where they treat the starting line with traction compound I turned my best 60' times with Mickey Thompson 26x10's on 10" rims running 20 lbs of air.
My 89 Formula Clone 3.jpg
 
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Looks like your 89 formula is getting some air. Impressive launch. I had 90/10 drag shocks on my 72 Ventura. I can't say anything bad about them. Great at the strip, but a little unstable for street driving , but tolerable to an extent. Yeah, can't have the the best of both worlds. Just like the numbers on the shock. For example, I'll keep the car 90% street and 10% strip. But to each his own. One step at a time. Umi subframe connectors ar going in next week still doing a little more thinking on the spring 's. Thanks for the info too.
 
One thing that really surprised me when I got this photo from the track photographer was the wrinkles in the slicks. I mean at 20 lbs I didn't expect to see that. Oh, and that launch was my best of three that day 4,500 rpm and dump the clutch!
I know what you mean about keeping it streetable; but I don't mind simple quick things that can help at the track. I drove it 90 miles each way to the track and once there put on the front & rear race tires, disconnected the y-pipe and swaybar. Also timed it so the tank was below 1/4 and added 3 gallons of race unleaded gas.
 
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That means what you did to the suspension and all the little tricks for the wrinkled slicks worked great. Simple mods and small tricks of knowledge and maybe throw in a little luck make a good run. My opinion for a good quarter run is the launch , very crucial. " bad start = bad time ". But a lot of practice is one of the best tricks. Lol.
 
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