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Rear hatch motor died and won't close
- Thread starter BuickGN
- Start date
Stick your finger in it! Yes, you heard me right. This has been a topic covered before but essentially the switch that tells the motor to go down was most probably triggered before it caught the latch. The motor will go down but until it goes all the way down it will not come back up. Sticking your finger down there will activate the switch so it goes all the way to the bottom. Then when you take your finger out it should come all the way back up. I learned this the hard way when I replaced the entire motor assembly because I didn't know this trick. Turned out the plastic rails on the original assembly were half gone anyway so not a big deal.
BuickGN
TTA# 130
I'll give it a try.
BuickGN
TTA# 130
Didn't work. There was a little switch in their that we kept pressing but nothing. Looks like a new motor is needed.
Like I said I did replace the entire assembly but it was with a used unit...and that was probably in '95. IMO, I'm not sure why they went with this setup in the first place. Maybe it was to help preserve the spoilers if you slam the hatch but IDK.
Try Lon over at Top Down Solutions.
http://www.top-downsolutions.com/
Try Lon over at Top Down Solutions.
http://www.top-downsolutions.com/
BuickGN
TTA# 130
Time flies when you're having fun! That's quite a while back. Might not even be that. After looking at that website, there are a lot of links in the chain. Is there some kind of repair section just for this problem. Like what tests and things to test to narrow down the solution?
I'd say start with taking the plastic panel off and get a good look at what you're working with. The plastic in the tracks were half gone on the original when I replaced it, and those were only 6 or 7 years old at the time. Then give Lon a call, he specializes in this area and should be able to point you in the right direction.
ModernDayMuscle.com carries motors for about $23 if I remember correctly. There are two switches to also consider. One is a limit switch for high and low position, the second is at the point of contact for the hatch "loop" with the motor "pull-down". For the wiring harness, talk to Lon at TopDownSolutions.com as previously mentioned.
For the plastic side strips, those were gone on my '89 Firebird a long time ago. I happened to have some 1/2" thick Delrin plastic. I measured and cut, based on the fragments I had. The blades on a table saw are exactly the thickness of the metal slides of the pull down assembly. I haven't had a problem since in about 8 years!!!!!
One thing about the TTA is that for general body parts, they are the same as the other Firebirds. Drivetrain and brakes are where the uniqueness originate.
For the plastic side strips, those were gone on my '89 Firebird a long time ago. I happened to have some 1/2" thick Delrin plastic. I measured and cut, based on the fragments I had. The blades on a table saw are exactly the thickness of the metal slides of the pull down assembly. I haven't had a problem since in about 8 years!!!!!
One thing about the TTA is that for general body parts, they are the same as the other Firebirds. Drivetrain and brakes are where the uniqueness originate.
BuickGN
TTA# 130
You guys are going to love this one! Took off the trim to see about putting in the rebuild kit. It happens that mice or chipmonks made a nest in there and chewed a couple of wires. Go figure! After a little fixing with electrical tape, everything works fine. Going to pack the rebuild kit away for when it does go, legitimately. Thanks for all the help and suggestions.
