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Last run of the season.....

2QUIK6 said:
There is a damn good one just east of Dallas, his shop always has a few turbo Buicks in it...he is building my 10 sec engine now for my GN. Known him for about 15 years or more and has worked on several of my cars in the past. JL Enterprises, PM if you need his info if the location is close enough to you.
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Thanks very much - he is about 5 hours away for me. If he's that good it might be worth the trip.

Here is an update: The mechanic ran the car a few more times after hearing the loud tapping sound and the sound has gone away. Good news so the engine doesn't need pulled. After that, they couldn't get it started again and found I have a bad ignition coil. So they are replacing the ignition coil, cleaning the rust of the ignition module which they think is OK, and changing plugs and wires. All I want is for my car to run like it did when it was new - or as close to that as possible. It has had a rough idle - so much so that one of the plug wires was near a piece of metal by the brake master cylinder and it rubbed through the outer layer of one plug wire. I think with the plug wire keepers, this should not be a problem. Maybe it will idle better with a new coil pack?
 
You need a good spring cleaning... keep in mind that in 1989 the gas was better so the car was more forgiving, that said the gas nowadays wont hold up to the timing that is in the org chip therefore you are a accident looking for a place to happen, also these ttas barely passed the sniff when new which speaks volume's to me.
 
OK, I think I remember someone had a spring cleaning routine that included the intercooler, the pintle inside the intake plenum, the little sponge things on the valve cover, and several other things to clean? I never have done any of those things. While it's at the shop all I can hope for is to make it run as best it can with the stock parts it has on it. I sure don't want to have a problem and get stranded somewhere or damage my engine. I would like to keep it stock as possible though. What is the best way to accomplish that? Is there a "this is how to make your stock tta run best" thread? Is there a way to change the stock chip and air flow meter to something that makes it run well with the option of putting it all back stock if I decide to sell my car one day? I never have hooked up a laptop to it either - never have bought the cable and software. So I see terms like translator and chip and downpipe and ball bearing turbo. Mine is all stock except for a Casper's cam sensor cap, a Red Armstrong XP fuel pump with pulsator, aftermarket red plug wires, and red powdercoated brake calipers. Otherwise all stock.
 
As a owner of a TTA YOU HAVE to know how it works.. otherwise you are flying blind...and yes we can start a thread on how to mod your tta without doing any harm.. and maintain it.. the first thing you need is a powerlogger. 18 frames per sec., shows everything.
 
Robert is 100% correct, if you are going to have a fuel injected car that 99.9% of the mechanics these days have no idea how to fix or repair, you need to get a scan tool of some type, a scan master that plugs into the ALDL is a good place to start for a beginner if you don't have a laptop to utilize. A powerlogger will require you to slightly modify the ECM case and clean off the ribbon slot on the ECM board. The MAF can be replaced with a Translator and LS1 MAF for reliability and is fully reversible back to stock if you want later, but if its not running smooth with the stock MAF you may not ever want it back on there anyway..there are a few tests you can do to determine if the MAF is acting up, lightly tap on it and if it smooths out, its the MAF. If you are going to keep the original style coil pack and ignition module, Capers makes a tester for them that is handy to have. New plugs, wires, coil, and clean out the Throttle body, IAC, then remove the IC and flush it out and that will be a good start to getting it back to running great again... And get the stock factory chip out of there, the timing is way too high for todays gas...romp on it 1 time with the factory chip and 1 little thing wrong will cause you to be replacing head gaskets or worse. Get a Turbo Tweak chip..keep the factory chip in a baggy as a momento :)
 
Ha! Thanks so much both of you for your comments. That is exactly the guidance I was wanting. My car is currently at the dealer and they are replacing the ignition coil, cleaning the ignition module, replacing plugs and wires. I also asked them to replace the water pump, install a new heater core, and check the rear end out. Water Pump: For several winters, coolant would come out all over the driveway so I figured something was wrong with the water pump - please - any comments are welcome. Heater Core: I bypassed the heater core several years ago when I had about 2" of coolant suddenly in the passenger foot well. Rear End: I have noticed in the past when I peeled out in the rain or in the snow, I would get a lot of vibration through the chassis when one wheel would slip, if it was the other wheel, no vibration. Makes me think something is awry with the rear end. Does this sound like something anyone has heard of before? To describe further: It is a very noticeable vibration - on one side it sounds like you would expect - tire spinning - like when a pickup truck is trying to get going on snow or when it rains, just that reeeeaaaaaaarrrrrrrrrrrr sort of sound. The other side (I think the right side) would make a terrible vibration through the chassis.
I do have a Microsoft Surface 3 Pro with a USB 3.0 port so I'm sure I can get a USB to I/O com port adapter if necessary. Thanks so much for telling me in a short message what all the important things to do are and what these common terms mean. To clean the IAC is it as simple as unscrewing it and spraying cleaner on it? Any links to the procedures would be great - otherwise I'll search the forum for some keywords. I'm excited especially that there is a way to make my car idle smoothly - it's annoying when you're at a traffic light and your arm bounces up and down while waiting for a green light. Thanks again for your advice and guidance.
 
I forgot to ask - any particular version of the powerlogger? I see turbotweak and kirban both carry it for $264.99. You guys are really nice to take the time to help me out. Nothing worse than like you say - flying blind - especially when taking my car to get worked on and hoping they don't break anything.
That reminds me - I have had trouble with my brakes also - have never been able to lock them up. Even pushing the pedal very very hard - only barely one of the back tires would lock up. Sounds like a vacuum booster issue - or maybe my manifold vacuum is not making enough vacuum? Ultimately, I want to have mechanical reliability and then I will address the cosmetics, the lights, the interior, etc.
 
Do I need a scanmaster in conjunction with the powerlogger or is the powerlogger sufficient all by itself?
 
Oh yeah, get a real boost gauge as the fac. one is useless, if you install a PL and SM you can see and record it there so not necessary.
 
Thanks Robert. As far as the PL and SM go, is the normal routine for you and others to permanently mount the SM in the car or keep it stowed in the console, and then for tuning to hook up the laptop/PL? Is this the reason to have both - one to always give you readings without being encumbered by the laptop, and then the laptop for tuning purposes?
 
You mount the SM where you can see it easy, i have a ubs cord for when i use the PL on the pass side that is long enough to set the laptop on the roof,it stays in the pass. side door pocket... but yes the PL is for tuning or recording a pass or run.
Forgot to add the PL speeds up the SM dramatically
 
Both TTAs I have had never stopped well for crap! Hence why the GNs had the PowerMaster electric setup..which worked great, but when the motor burns up you have hardly any brakes at all...at least with the TTA you have some brakes just not enough to lock up the wheels...it was anti-lock long before it's time :)
 
It is difficult to understand these cars not being able to lock up their brakes. Who doesn't need to lock up from time to time? It is disappointing news. Does it have anything to do with the power booster system? I read somewhere that the valve on the booster can malfunction and not allow the brake booster to do it's thing. So doe everyone on here have lackluster brake performance with the stock 1LE brakes?
 
Before I order my ScanMaster 2.1? Does anyone have a used one for sale? Also, what about the Scanmaster-G Gauge for Turbo Buick - Black: Scanmaster-G Gauge for Turbo Buick - Black

It's really small (2-1/16" gauge size) and sounds pretty neat - I have Windows Phone and a Microsoft Surface, both with Bluetooth. It says this will communicate via Bluetooth. Has anyone used one of these? Only downside is maybe the size of the unit - looks like it was made to mount on the A pillar in a gauge pod.
 
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