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Heater/AC Directional Control valvve

Kris, 250 is really hot and 220 is not good either.

The first thing I did before I picked my car up in Tn. before bringing it to Fl was put a new radiator in it. I went with a stock replacement and also replaced the relays at the time and also had the AC converted to r134a.

I also put a 160 degree thermostat in there as well.

The TTA runs cool and my AC is cold and I am very pleased. Since you are talking about your TTA with the mods, you do need the 160 in there.

I could have repaired the original radiator, but I put a new one in at a great price. Hope this helps!
 
Thanks for the input, I wonder why it runs so hot, must just be the radiator needs to be replaced. So you went with a lower thermostat. How does that work, do the fans work more to keep it under 160?

I think I just need to replace the radiator too, hopefully I can find a bigger one.
 
Kman1971 said:
Thanks for the input, I wonder why it runs so hot, must just be the radiator needs to be replaced. So you went with a lower thermostat. How does that work, do the fans work more to keep it under 160?

I think I just need to replace the radiator too, hopefully I can find a bigger one.
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Stock size rad. is fine, if you have t.t Chip you should already have a 160 temp. thermosat as the T.T chip turn's the fan's on at 160, maybe it need's a flush or new hose's
 
Are the fans coming on? When the A/C is on, they should be on. Depending on how the front mount intercooler is set up it could be blocking air flow to the radiator. If it is, a bigger radiator may help. Also check to make sure there is nothing blocking air flow to the radiator. I have found plastic bags in front of the radiator. Are the baffles to the radiator still in place? They are very important on these cars.
 
The front mount intercooler is right up against the back of the radiator. I think you are right, that it is blocking air flow to the radiator. I think I will get a bigger radiator and change the hoses too. There are two fans on the intercooler and they come on when the car starts. I'm not sure about the baffles, I will look at #613 and then compare it to the hot one and see if they look any different.
Thanks for the help.
 
Checked the car again this morning. Some of the coolant had evaporated, from the heat I'm guessing, we didn't see any leaking. The coolant was flushed and filled when I had the alky kit installed, so we just filler her up. After 5 minutes, the car was up to 180, 10 minutes, the car was at 220, 20 minutes, the car was at hovering around 240, we used the heat gun on the block and it was at 240. Both fans work and blow right onto the radiator, the large front mount intercooler is in front of that. The chip is a bailey chip so I am guessing it is run the same way and the fans kick on at 160, but it seems the fans are always running, maybe set up that way.

My conclusion is, the front mount intercooler is blocking air flow and causing the radiator/coolant/engine to run hotter. I am leaning towards buying a bigger radiator to put in. This should give more coolant and flow to the engine to cool things down some. There is plenty of room to move the radiator closer to the engine too with the stock intercooler gone. What do you guys think? Anyone ever had a front mount intercooler and bigger radiator? I am wondering where I can find one. I checked Rock Auto and they all seem to be stock replacements.

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Took it for a drive for about 20 minutes, a/c on max too.

I sent Jack at cotton performance an email to see what he would recommend and I also see Summit has a few performance radiator to choose from.
 
Kman1971 said:
Took it for a drive for about 20 minutes, a/c on max too.

I sent Jack at cotton performance an email to see what he would recommend and I also see Summit has a few performance radiator to choose from.
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I would change the radiator hose's and thermostat before i bought a new radiator, the hose's might collapse only when you are driving and the thermostat could be stuck half open, worth a shot since you will probably buy new one's anyhow...
 
Make sure you get a 160 thermostat, something else to think about, when the T.R guy's upgrade their radiator's guess what they get? one from a f-body...
 
Ok, Changed the hoses,thermostat 160 and water pump, didn't change anything, actually ran the hottest yet, 253 with the A/C on max so changed the radiator to a bigger aluminum one and adjusted the fans a bit to give them more flow, big difference. This was the radiator I got from Summit racing and got to me next day WOW... Summit Racing SUM-380455 - Summit Racing Direct Fit Aluminum Radiators - Overview - SummitRacing.com



Now with the A/C on max the hottest it got today with the temp about 100 degrees was 217. Turned the A/C off and it went back down to 203. The duel fans have been changed on this one and they are thinner and I am not sure they give as much air flow as the stock fans. I guess if we want it cooler I could try replacing both fans, but I think 217 is ok on the hottest of days. What do you guys think?

Next, the mechanic noticed several exhaust leaks. The car was modified for the 3" downpipe, cats removed, and a Borla exhaust put in. From the downpipe to the muffler there are five sections bolted together and the last section before the muffler has a visible hole in it. Also the turbo outlet to the manifold had a leak. You can see in the picture below the gasket that was all mangled up and with the car running you could feel air puffing out at the gasket. I am guessing these leaks are having a huge effect on the turbo spooling and the lag I am feeling. The mechanic recommended removing the gasket and just tightening it up at the connection metal to metal? What do you guys think? He had the gasket out while I was there and I have pictures below. He was working on getting it back together but I had to leave before we could test it and I will check it out tomorrow.

He also suggested running one 3" exhaust pipe, welded in, from the 3" down pipe to the Borla muffler inlet. This would remove all the bolted sections and leaks. Makes sense to me, what do you guys think from the pic's and the set up. And does anyone have any detailed pics of their 3" downpipe and exhaust set up for comparison?

Thanks again in advance for the the help and advice.

Here is the Turbo Exhaust to the Manifold and the blown gasket.
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Here is what the gasket looked like removed.
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Here are several pics of the exhaust. The first one show the visible holes in it.
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What is the importance of this part where the red arrow is pointing?
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Does anyone know what these two things are where the red arrows are pointing?
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The red arrows are pointing to a precision external waste gate that looks to be on your cross pipe. And that is totally a weird spot for it. Looks like it is wide open too a likely exhaust leak there, massive one. If I am seeing what I am seeing correctly
 
Thanks Jarred,

I thought this was the wastegate, but maybe this is just the controller. The guy I had do the work on the engine set it for me and said I shouldn't need to adjust it, so I haven't. Where are they typically mounted? And how can you tell it is wide open?
IMAG0381-1-1.jpg
 
Wow wow wow..... what a difference a small turbo exhaust leaks does to these cars. Drove it this morning after removing the bad gasket on the turbo outlet to the manifold and it is like a new car. Very responsive now and the turbo spools instantly like it should. The tires break loose so easy now. Awesome Now onto the leak in the exhaust pipe. Car is running cool and fast as it should be. Its all good now.
 
Glad to hear the car is running well now. My waste gate is just off the exhaust elbow by the turbo. That is where I usually see them. If your car is running well than the waste gate must not be wide open. What I thought was maybe you were loosing exhaust gases out the side port of the waste gate, on yours it looks open where on mine I have a plate closing it off. But if your building boost fast there is no exhaust leak from that area. I'll try to post pics for you later this weekend of my set up.
 
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