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buying a TTA...Need HELP!!!

spikestta

Active Member
I'm in the process of buying a TTA. Can someone contact me and tell me what to look for? I have no idea!! 1917 439-1765 thanks.. p.s picking up car 2/19/07 @ 3pm...
 
Why don't you post some info about the car. Miles, location, original or modified, price, etc. Etc.

Then we can give you some help.
 
Hey guys..............does there happen to be a VIN # tag underneath on the hood anywhere? Like there is on the inside of the rear quarter panels, and on the rear hatch? I can't remember, and spike was wondering too!
 
89MNTTA said:
Hey guys..............does there happen to be a VIN # tag underneath on the hood anywhere? Like there is on the inside of the rear quarter panels, and on the rear hatch? I can't remember, and spike was wondering too!

I think there's ones on the inside of the front fenders. You can see it through the opening where the stock airbox sits I think on the drivers side.

edit: you can see the pictures here http://midwestmusclemachines.com/tta_items.html just scroll down towards the bottom and it'll show the pictures.
 
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It is a 24k mile car.The car is some what stock . The car has a computer chip and a air filter . I has after market tire's the hood was painted and the factory wing was changed to a fiber glass wing.The owner still has the original cracked wing . The rest of paint seems original . I was wondering under the hood where the fender's bolt on should the paint be as nice as the paint on the fender . The paint has no clear coat there and is almost like a matte finish . The passenger side fender sticks out slightly where it meets the door and windsheild .There is a slight exaust leak in the rear by the muffler . The interior is show quality . We agreed on a price of $18,000 over all the car is very clean.. thanks...
 
spikestta said:
It is a 24k mile car.The car is some what stock . The car has a computer chip and a air filter . I has after market tire's the hood was painted and the factory wing was changed to a fiber glass wing.The owner still has the original cracked wing . The rest of paint seems original . I was wondering under the hood where the fender's bolt on should the paint be as nice as the paint on the fender . The paint has no clear coat there and is almost like a matte finish . The passenger side fender sticks out slightly where it meets the door and windsheild .There is a slight exaust leak in the rear by the muffler . The interior is show quality . We agreed on a price of $18,000 over all the car is very clean.. thanks...

so you ended up buying the car? Sounds like it's pretty nice but 18k seems a little above average for the mileage, but if the car is as nice as you say it should be worth around that. The paint on the inner fenders should be rough around the bolts and it doesn't have clear on it from the factory. Keep in mind the paint sucked on these cars straight from GM, expect to find drips, runs, and stuff in the paint it was all there from the factory.

The muffler leak shouldn't be too much of a problem, the exhaust is the same from the cat back as a single catted GTA. I think most people have chosen to go with Hooker exhaust, just make sure you keep your stock tips and either put them on the new exhaust or put them into storage. The spoiler is a normal problem, and most cars have had them replaced or they need to be replaced. Out of the about 30 TTAs that I have seen in person only 1 had the original spoiler that wasn't cracked and it had 400 miles on it I believe.

Did you get anything else with the car like the owners kit or extra parts? The owners kits are worth a nice chunk of change. Make sure to get us some pictures of the car once you get the chance, it's always nice seeing another TTA.
 
Sounds good. But like Jared said did you get the Owners Kit? If not try and knock another 500 to 1000 off...
 
If its the car you want, then dont let the owners kit hold you back. 18K for a 24k mile car seems higher to some people, but that is still a decent price as fair market value. Just because someone that knows these cars can find one a little cheaper doesnt mean your getting stiffed. Like I said before, if you like the car, then go for it. They are only rising in value now....Let us know what happens.
 
10point said:
If its the car you want, then dont let the owners kit hold you back. 18K for a 24k mile car seems higher to some people, but that is still a decent price as fair market value. Just because someone that knows these cars can find one a little cheaper doesnt mean your getting stiffed. Like I said before, if you like the car, then go for it. They are only rising in value now....Let us know what happens.

I wasn't really meaning that the price is steep, just that it's high for an average car of that mileage at this time. If the car is beyond average in condition or has some other significance than it can easily warrant the slightly higher price. If it comes with the owners kit the $18k becomes very close to market value on the car, I would estimate an average 24k mile car is worth about $16k. The price could easily swing from $14k -$18k though depending on what it comes with, condition, what it needs, and if it's a festival car. That's the thing with these cars that some of the TTA specific parts have become so expensive and hard to come by that if it comes with or without those parts (emblems, decals, owners kit, spark plug wires, etc) it could easily sway the price $2k for a car of equal quality.

We were also trying to point him in a direction of about what the price should be. For someone who isn't familiar with the going price they could easily be willing to pay a little more than maybe what the car is really worth. I know before I bought my car me and my dad spent about 4 months looking at TTA ebay auctions, cars online, in the autotrader, and we went and looked at two cars to get a pretty decent feel for the market value. Of course we realised in the end that the first car that we passed on was the best option we looked at but it was gone before we knew enough about the cars.
 
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I guess my point was he already knows how to look at any particular car to buy, but just wanted to know the specifics on the TTA. Yes, i agree it could sway 1 or 2k with the extra goodies, but in all, the car is what makes up the real value.

I had a guy buy one of my TTA's last year because it was close. He is still happy with it and IMHO, he could have gotten a better deal further away, but it was close.That same car is up a couple grand now...For investors.

I look at:
Spoiler
Vin stickers(trunk,fenders,hood,rear hatch,back bumper)7th# should be L for LC2
RPO code #'s located in console ( cloth 66D, otherwise leather)
Doc's ( if any)
Stock parts (extras)
And also,look at it from a nonbuying standpoint

Hope that helps
 
So,
You got it?
If so, good for you, and welcome to TTA ownership.
I wouldn't worry about paying too much.
Afterall, I bought mine new, at $31,300, plus tax and linense fees.
I also had to finance it for a few years, since I had to also borrow some money to get it.
My cost?
Probably around 50 grand.
Does it bother me?
Not at all.
As I said, I had it from day 1.
I didn't buy it to make money off it.
I don't intend to sell it.
You will always hear someone getting a better deal.
Have fun with it, either way!

George :cool:
 
10point said:
I guess my point was he already knows how to look at any particular car to buy, but just wanted to know the specifics on the TTA. Yes, i agree it could sway 1 or 2k with the extra goodies, but in all, the car is what makes up the real value.

I had a guy buy one of my TTA's last year because it was close. He is still happy with it and IMHO, he could have gotten a better deal further away, but it was close.That same car is up a couple grand now...For investors.

I look at:
Spoiler
Vin stickers(trunk,fenders,hood,rear hatch,back bumper)7th# should be L for LC2
RPO code #'s located in console ( cloth 66D, otherwise leather)
Doc's ( if any)
Stock parts (extras)
And also,look at it from a nonbuying standpoint

Hope that helps
If it is a Leather car vs. Cloth car can make a difference here also. You can figure a couple grand more for a Cloth car. If Leather look at the seat bolsters on the drivers seat. Typical wear area. Should not be too bad on a 24000 mile car.
Make sure you get original plug wires if they are not on the car.

Also as George comments: Enjoy it (Show, race, cruse or just drive)!
- Dave
 
Wow this website is great , I really appreciate all the response's and think they helped me out. Due to the the snow and ice on the ground I did not pick up the car yet but I think I have a deal set for the end of the week. I will post as soon as I pick up the car and look forward to future post's. Thanks again guys.
 
If you're going to look at it tomorrow you can reach me at 574-229-3226 if I don't answer right away I'll call you right back it just means I'm in class and I gotta step out and I'll call you back.

Also take a look at these threads. There's some helpful info
http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/tu...k-buying-tta.html?highlight=looking+at+buying
http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/tu...e-questions-advice.html?highlight=buying+tips

Or if it comes down to it, make sure to take a camera with you and if there's anything your questionable about take a picture and let the guy know that you're very interested in the car you just want to look into a couple things first and that you'll let him know tomorrow. Then come on here and ask any questions that you might have and post pictures of questionable parts and you can get feedback and maybe pictures to confirm any suspicion.
 
Where are you on Long Island? I'm on the south shore of Suffolk County. There's another member of this site in Smithtown with 3 TTA's. Where is the car located? Good luck with it; if I can be of any help, let me know.
 
spikestta said:
It is a 24k mile car.The car is some what stock . The car has a computer chip and a air filter . I has after market tire's the hood was painted and the factory wing was changed to a fiber glass wing.The owner still has the original cracked wing . The rest of paint seems original . I was wondering under the hood where the fender's bolt on should the paint be as nice as the paint on the fender . The paint has no clear coat there and is almost like a matte finish . The passenger side fender sticks out slightly where it meets the door and windsheild .There is a slight exaust leak in the rear by the muffler . The interior is show quality . We agreed on a price of $18,000 over all the car is very clean.. thanks...

Mario, I'm sorry I couldn't call you back tonight! I worked late, and now I just think it's too late to call you. It sounds like you have a few days to gather up some more information too. Let me know what else you need, I'd be happy to help you out. Later.
 
mr.turbota said:
So,
You got it?
If so, good for you, and welcome to TTA ownership.
I wouldn't worry about paying too much.
Afterall, I bought mine new, at $31,300, plus tax and linense fees.
I also had to finance it for a few years, since I had to also borrow some money to get it.
My cost?
Probably around 50 grand.
Does it bother me?
Not at all.
As I said, I had it from day 1.
I didn't buy it to make money off it.
I don't intend to sell it.
You will always hear someone getting a better deal.
Have fun with it, either way!

George :cool:



------------------------
Awesome post George. You make this forum fun and easy. Have a great night.
 
Does any one know how to check if the car is matching #'s were are the #'s on the block and on the tranny and is there a book that translates the #'s to date's . And were can I find something to help . thanks..
 
spikestta said:
Does any one know how to check if the car is matching #'s were are the #'s on the block and on the tranny and is there a book that translates the #'s to date's . And were can I find something to help . thanks..

read this thread about the different numbers http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/tu...-mile-tta-enjoy-2.html?highlight=block+number The block correlates with the VIN but the transmission does not. However the trans should have the TAF code I believe it is (not a BRF which came in the Turbo Buicks).
 
spikestta said:
Does any one know how to check if the car is matching #'s were are the #'s on the block and on the tranny and is there a book that translates the #'s to date's . And were can I find something to help . thanks..

What did you find out Mario? Did you buy the car?




JP :cool1:
 
Not yet he went upstate new york for the weekend he said he was going to call when he got home . I'm in no rush I learn new things about these cars every day . When I go back I will give this car a really good look. You guy's helped me out alot. thank again I'll keep you posted...
 
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