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#77 Start up - Then Idle (video)

Thanks Mike, I'm guessing some sensor, as well as the IAC. Just don't want to start spending money on things that don't need replacing. When theres so many other things that need replacing.
I think the problem is the blue intake hose :sick: if you change to black it might help ... ;) Seriously you have to fix the vac leak first or nothing will be right....you will just keep adding to the problem
 
Robert is right, the vac leak needs to be fixed. Blms at 142 too high.

Milling the intake was talked about. If the intake is ok and good shape, I would probably put new heads on it, since we don't know how much the heads on it now have been milled. That way you could have a good surface between intake and heads to eliminate the intake-vac leak.
 
Thanks for the replies guys. Yes I know that blue intake is killing me, LOL. Hopfully end of this month, all new air intake, maf, and translater.

The intake manifold will come off again for sure. Now question is, since I don't know how much to mill off the intake, can I get new heads, port them, and transfer everything over from the old heads to the new?

I'll be getting to an area were my knowledge is limited there. Then I can use the same manifold, with the new stock heads that are just ported, and not milled, or will I run into other problems? :wall:
 
I wouldn't replace the IAC motor just yet,it looks new and the scanmaster numbers say it's working and the those low numbers jive with the INT and BLM numbers, so save your money.

It simply looks like a serious vacuum leak and the ECM is barely able to keep it under control and idling.

And for good reason, I cringe when I see regular hose clamps used on any part of the pressurized intake side. Spend your money on T-bolt clamps.


...
 
I guess I didn't fully watch the video since my daughter wanted to go to the pool, but my first thought was the IAC since it is pretty easy to remove and clean all the black gunk off of. I just saw that the car doesn't even have seats in it. lol And I agree with the rest that the blue intake hose has to go. :)
 
I had VERY similar issues when I got #579 running for the first time. Here's what I learned, feel free to take everything with a grain of salt:

#1. It's very difficult to troubleshoot anything on this engine while you have vacuum leaks. They are very easy to fix.

#2. IACs are very important. Make sure you have a good one, the first one I bought was a dud.

#3. After you have a known good IAC, run through the "TPS/idle adjust" procedure.

#4. Fuel can also be a major contributor. If your injectors are old, buy a new set. Racetronix sells reasonably priced, stock flow fuel injectors (as do others). Check your pressure too.
 
OK thanks for the support guys. I will fix all vac leaks, and that manifold leak, but back to post #7. Can I buy a new set of heads and port not mill them? And can I take everything off the old heads and put on the new heads, if I can't mill the ,anifold. That is my biggest concern.

Now I will get a LT! maf unless people here so no get this instead, and a translater. Any part #'s on a air filter and pipe most people are using? Then for sure will get T-Bolts and good hoses.
The TT chip and Injectors are brand new.

Thanks guys my project is taking more time than I thought, but in the end this car will be great.
 
As far as a replacement head for the TTA, try to find casting #25527515. There was a source on e-bay that had them new, but I can't seem to find them. That is not the TTA casting # but will work good.

And how much do you want to spend on the heads. If you really want them done right, take them to Champion and have them ported and completely reworked, they use bigger valves and a much better valve seals. I would take a set of good core heads to have this done to.

Here is a source of remanufactured heads with the correct casting #.

http://flitelineenginesupply.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=3&products_id=200
 
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OK thanks for the support guys. I will fix all vac leaks, and that manifold leak, but back to post #7. Can I buy a new set of heads and port not mill them? And can I take everything off the old heads and put on the new heads, if I can't mill the ,anifold. That is my biggest concern.

Now I will get a LT! maf unless people here so no get this instead, and a translater. Any part #'s on a air filter and pipe most people are using? Then for sure will get T-Bolts and good hoses.
The TT chip and Injectors are brand new.

Thanks guys my project is taking more time than I thought, but in the end this car will be great.
Slow down and think about it, there should be a way to set the intake in place to mark it or even use the old gasket's as a templet to MAYBE show the problem then take it to a comp. machine shop and see what they can do with it... cheaper than replacing everthing...
 
the intake side of the head should be milled at time of cyl.side of head milling . make temp gaskit [buy gaskit paper or cork] tac to intake install then remove to check sealing. and /or call some one like jack merkel for advice how to check.a set of used fwd heads are a cheap temp fix lap valves in. install new springs should hold stock boost
 
Slow down and think about it, there should be a way to set the intake in place to mark it or even use the old gasket's as a templet to MAYBE show the problem then take it to a comp. machine shop and see what they can do with it... cheaper than replacing everthing...


Yes Robert, I think you are right. I would like to just mill the intake manifold to match the heads if possible, before I get to taking half the engine apart. It is rebuilt, but I'm sure the previous owner took off alot of parts, maybe even a different manifold?

Anyways before getting into taking and replacing heads, my day off I need to find a machine shop that knows and can help me out. I really don't know how much needs to be milled off the intake manifold, and had never done it. Anybody know a good machine shop in N FL?

And thanks for the 2 sites Mike, I really got to get rid of that awful blue hose!:wall:
 
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