Get a scan master, understand that your car need to run with zero knock.
Get a cold air intake, adjustable waste gate rod, and methanol injection kit.
Order an injector and turbo tweak combo after you have your mods, cause the chip is burnt according to your mods.
Get sticky tires and hope the transmission holds up after you turn up the boost via alky.
Good luck
I agree with Jarred on the the meth injection option. you can even run Denatured Alky. I do. It's easy to find at hardware store if meth is hard to source.
Basically keeping the intake charge efficient increases hp. The stock turbo is only efficient to about 16 psi, after that it starts whipping the air up to a hotter charge. So if you can make that stock turbo run more efficient, the better.
Your gonna need a fuel pressure gauge either wet on the rail under hood or a fancy in cabin gauge. Either way you need to know your fp.
You also need a adjustable fuel pressure reg, and you need to set that baby to about 42-43 psi with the cap off at idle, so that with cap on and at WOT your running about 61-63 psi to 20+psi of boost ideally, others can chime in with their experiences and opinions. This is where the scan master comes in to monitor any knock. Don't be too bashful about knock. Knock can ruin your day and destroy shit, but the factory knock sensor is the reason Buick could even sell these turbo cars then and it's pretty fast to pull timing for a 25 yr old set-up and save your ass (read Gale Banks comments on the sensor and developer in the new issue of HotRod magazine)
Back in the early 90's I ran high boost with no monitoring gauges and went by ear to hear knock. note: still have factory head gaskets after 23+ psi runs for the past 20+ years.
You will have to have a reburned chip to run the alky. As to your new 60# inj and chip.
The thing you'll notice the most is that driveablility will be much better. Mine had weird surging and searching in the rpm and street manners was weird. It would die at times in traffic which really caused havoc in traffic. Once I switched to the tweak chip all bad manners were erased and it acted like a new Toyota Camry in traffic.
In the search for a better more efficient charge intake, you may want to consider the duttweiler intercooler modification. It smooths up and increases transition from turbo to intercooler. Helps a bit. Said to be good for 20 hp. Always source 100+ unleaded octane if possible . Never hurts.
Some good drag radials like Micky Thompson (aggressive-short life-best 60 ft times) or Nittos drag radials (milder- street driver-longer life-not as good 60ft times)
And for the most cheap modification with the most holy shit factor, cut a hole in the downpipe (unless your a purist and want to keep your stock downpipe in pristine shape-though you can have it welded back up) I did that back the early 90's before almost any other mod other than a K&N filter. Increases the turbo spool time like night and day. Dynos a stock TTA motor almost 50 hp according to the now MIA vendor Eastern Performance (an early turbo buick vendor)
There isn't any actual cold air intake that you can buy ready made from any known vendor, you kinda have to source stuff from the turbo Buick vendors and create yourself. You can follow my photos on my website, it shows what I rigged up from vendor stuff and parts I found that worked.
Nice car BTW. :cowboy: Oh yeah to your question of running exotics with above suggestions...I beat a 1990 ZR1 in an 1/8 mile with only a open down pipe and crushed fuel reg (higher fp) and K&N. That's everything else stock even chip and injectoras back in the early 90's. Also beat a early 91 formula firehawk that was supposed to be in the 350+ hp range just to give you an idea. Car ran 12.90's all day long and 13.70's with AC on.
