no manual,need help

[leemac#573]

i am just getting ready to replace the passenger side head gasket and am a little nervous about the whole thing. I know my way around a car for the most part,have been around several small block chevy motors,but just looking under the hood at this turbo motor is a little intimidating! With summer in its prime and only putting 1500 miles on this car before the head gasket left me, i dont have time to wait on a shop manuel. could somebody help me that owns a manual? is there a sequence to torquing the head bolts? what is the torque specs on the valve cover bolts? do you have to remove the intake manifold? any info from somebody who has had to do this would b very helpful!

 

[8289ta]

I am in the same boat as you. I have never owned a Buick Turbo - I have plenty of experience around Ford and Chevy Motors. I am sure someone here could help you out with that.
The only advice I can give you is that I hope you are changing both head gaskets. It would be a shame to go through all that work and not do the other side. The driver side was probably subjected to the same thing that caused the passenger side to let go.
BTW - You are definitely going to have to take the intake off.

 

[WS6]

Valve cover torque is 13 ft.lbs,head bolt sequence(what I use) is to spiral out from the center to 40, 55,70,85 ft lbs. Some retorque a day later,some retorque after backing them off. I don't think there is a magic way.

Being new, label all your sensor connectors, take some pictures of before the disassembly and use them for reference.

I'd take the doghouse off if I were you guys and the fuel rail with injectors too. It's not necessary when you get experienced, but easier when you need to accurately torque down the intake.

Take the "S" hose(bypass) off between the intake and waterpump early in the dissassembly as that is where the harness snakes under, and then put it on last after you've hooked up all your connections.

The intimidating part to you guys is seeing that intake on there with all it's whoo-har, once it's off it'll look like any old shortblock engine.

EDIT.. Head bolt torque specs is based on ARP hardware and NOT the TTY(torque to yield) headbolts.


..

 

[leemac#573]

awsome info! I found a couple hours after work today to take pictures and kinda get started. any idea what the intake bolts torque down to?

 

[WS6]

Off the top of my head...I'm thinkin' 32 ft.lbs.

 

[jarredsoon]

For sure do both gaskets and for sure do a retorque after a few heat cycles. Good luck! Not really that hard just alotta wrench pullin

 

[leemac#573]

getting heads back tomarrow and putting everything back together.with the motor at top dead center ,what is the sequencing on the valve adjustment?

 

[WS6]

No sequencing, factory stamped rockers are "torque to lash" so torquing them down nets the proper preload on the lifters.

NOW....you mentioned getting your heads back? If they were milled they may end up with more preload than you want.


So...maybe you should put a dial indicator on and measure how much preload your getting now.

.030-.060 is okay.