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Car won't start

ttanotchback

ttanotchback

Well-Known Member
I pulled my car onto drive last night and shut it off, 5 minutes later turned the key and nothing. Gauges work, i hear fuel pump just no ignition. I don't know if it's VATS or starter. Anyone know how to test VATS? Any help...
 
If I remember right...the security light will flash if the VATS system does not "pass" the key.

There's a ton of VATS reading over at 3rd gen.org...if you dare....
 
no crank problems are fairly common with these cars. I went thru this alot with my first TTA. initially the solinoid was bad, replaced it. All was ok for a while then I had more no crank when the car was hot. I was successful starting the car with a mechanics style remote starter switch, Finally I just wired a auxilary starter switch with 10 ga wire directly from the battery to the solinoid.
That said, there is a Vatts relay behind the drivers kick panel that could be a source of problems. I bypassed the vatts relay but it was no help in my situation. the solinoid circuit then goes thru the nutral position switch in the shifter.
Others have tracked down problems with the starter inhibit connections from aftermarket alarm systems. Still other guys have mounted a "ford" style solinod switch on the firewall and ran heavier gage wire down to the gm starter.
I think the location of the starter and the tighter confins of the exhaust manifolds and the downpipe just get things too hot.

Kinda random thoughts but maybe it will help.

Glenn
 
I have one set of keys for my 92 that is 50/50 on whether it will pass the VATS module. So that set just hangs on the key rack.And that just sucks.

If the VATS module does not "pass" the key it disables the starter relay and does not allow the ECM to pulse the injectors. And I see no reference to disabling the fuel pump relay in the service manual. So that may still engage.

I did read that the VATS system will not allow any start for 3 minutes after each failed attempt to authorize a coded key. Even if the correct resistance is read by the VATS module after the initial failed attempt within the 3 minutes of first failure.

If there is any good news for flaky VATS operation it is that it can be disabled by chip burners. But that will leave you unprotected for theft without that option.

But, back to it, the security light needs to go out 2 seconds after the key is on to indicate if the VATS is working and that the key has passed. If it stays on then I'd start with a VATS problem.
 
Wow some good trouble shooting and reading here guys thanks for the posts! Make sure you post what it was and we'll make this one a sticky! This thread could save allot of people trouble shooting time that's for sure! :cheers:
 
My security light goes on when ignition is first turned on then goes out. It's got to be the starter solenoid, because to remove the starter i have to take off cross over pipe just to get to the starter...nice
 
Has the starter/solenoid been giving your trouble before? Or did it up and die?
 
Actually I replaced the solinoid without removing the starter. If you disconnect the batery, unhook the wires. remove the three solinoid screws. then twist the solinoid about 90 deg and it will slide off.

If you take a wire about 4 ft long. crimp an eyelet to onre end and attach the eyelet end to the small term on the solinoid, (leave the existing slo wire on). you can touch the other end to the pos batt terminal. if the starter spins the motor the solinoid and starter are good and you have a wiring problem.

Good luck

Glenn
 
yeah if the motor turns and tries to start the starter should be in alright shape. If it's not even cranking then you'll be looking at a new starter and you might as well pick up a smaller high torque replacement on turbobuick.com from one of the sponsors since it'll probably last longer.
 
since this threads been revived im gonna go ahead and say x2 on a high torque mini starter... thats whatd id replace a bad starter with anytime.
 
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