I've heard about them being problematic in the past. Seems either people have issues with them or they work fine. The gages were done by Denso and long gone from GM's inventory. It gets it's reading from the MAP sensor. Could even be an issue there. Check all the vacuum lines to the MAP as well. Test the 3 bar sensor, The green wire should read 1.5volts DC ignition on, on the sensor as indicated above. Another test, if you unplug and jump the green to gray wire on the plug, the gage should go past 20 PSI. Have someone watch the gage when you do this. And be quick to see if it responds. A paper clip can be used.
Also...
The TTA MAP is wired backwards from all other GM MAP sensors. In the 90's GM decided to make the MAP uniform and if you go to GMpartsdirect.com and try and get a 3 bar, it will tell you a plug is needed. What that plug does is reverse the wiring on the MAP making it then uniform with the other map sensors GM makes.
Why did they wire the original MAPs backwards??? Dunno. Probably has to do with the resistor placed in the harness leading to the MAP that drops its 5volts supply to 4.7volts zero'ing out the dash guage.
Another person did this..
The boost gage is hooked up separately on back of the instrument cluster and it was disconnected when the cluster was pulled out. After hooking it back up the gage was found to be off almost 10 PSI, hence the reason someone must have disconnected it. Anyway what I did was set my air compressor to 10 PSI and then hooked up another test pressure gage on the end of the air hose to verify regulator gage was correct. After doing that I hooked up the hose to the MAP input with ignition on. I then carefully removed the gage pointer and re-inserted at the set pressure of 10 PSI. After doing that I did a three point check (2,10,18 psi) to verify reading was correct and all is well now.
Good luck try those things and let us know how you make out!