What's new
TurboTransAm.com

Register today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

Best way to do head gaskets - motor in or out?

sdriche

Well-Known Member
I found a low coolant issue in my TTA (although car runs fine) and no signs of leaks. I'm concerned it's a head gasket issue. I'm doing a compression test later to confirm, but my question is:

If I have to replace the head gaskets, is it possible (or should I say worth it) to do it w/ the motor in the car or does the motor need to come out? I have a lift so access from underneath isn't an issue.

I see all the gasket recommendations and ARP bolt recommendations on here so that should help. I haven't confirmed a problem, just trying to prepare. Thanks.
 
You got enough room (with head bolts not studs I believe) to do it with the engine in the car. But of course easier if in an engine stand but more work that way.
 
Sorry to hear about the low coolant issue. I sure hope you wont have to replace the head gaskets. On this note, ensure you heater core is not leaking antifreeze as this could also be the culprit for low fluid level. Check the carpet on your passenger side.

Do you smell antifreeze while the car is running/driving it?
 
I have changed head gaskets both with the engine in and out of the car. While it is easier to assemble the top end with the motor out I usually prefer to leave the motor in the car. That's just me though. The heads are very heavy and not very easy to place sometimes.

Jarred
 
I would take the plugs out and turn the car over just incase it has water on the pistons where the cylinder or cylinders wont get rusty jmo.
 
I have not done the head gaskets on my tta but I have done them on my 1987 grand national no big deal ,it is a hole lot less work with the engine in the car.
 
Car runs exceptionally well. No stumble, no visible antifreeze leaks or smell. I'll compression test it and see what it measures. I'll hope for the best so thanks to everyone for the advice. I did a visual inspection of the motor and actually found a slow fuel leak at the regulator. Last thing I need is an engine fire. Whew.
 
If I popped a HG in the middle of the summer then they got changed motor in, if it was late in the fall then motor comes out for a bearing inspection too.
 
I was in a hurry....so, if it's the middle of the summer and I'm racing every Wednesday or Saturday I need a quick turn around, so I pull the heads-engine in the car still.
If it's September or later and the season is winding down and I pop a HG I retire the car early and pull the engine to do them on the stand. I also look over the main bearings for damage and address that too.

Understand?
 
The first TTA I bought had a blown headgasket that had been repaired in the car...long story short, I got the car really cheap because it had a rod knocking, caused by headgasket crap in the oil pan. If you do it in the car:D be very careful.
I prefer pulling out completely:D:D
 
I was in a hurry....so, if it's the middle of the summer and I'm racing every Wednesday or Saturday I need a quick turn around, so I pull the heads-engine in the car still.
If it's September or later and the season is winding down and I pop a HG I retire the car early and pull the engine to do them on the stand. I also look over the main bearings for damage and address that too.

Understand?


Gotcha can always clean the engine bay area a lot better with no engine
 
Back
Top