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2000rpm vibration

1

1 QUIK6

Well-Known Member
Hi everybody,

I've got a head scratcher. I'm getting a vibration coming through the chassis of my TTA when I am around 2000 rpms. I first only noticed it when driving around town but later figured out that it happens (but not as noticeable) when the vehicle is in park. Any ideas of what to look for???
 
Your problem could be many things but I had a vibration once and it was a flywheel bolt got loose. I didn't really figure it out until it worked itself so loose it would rattle on the case inside when sitting in neutral. Just a thought.
 
Bad News.

Flywheel bolts and torque converter bolts were tight. Did an oil change and cut open filter - found metal in filter :-(

Oil pan is coming off the car right now. My mechanic thinks it was a rod bearing we were hearing.

I'll keep you updated. I guess I'm going to have to cancel my May 17th race outing. I spent all of my "race fund" on the new turbo and related parts. Guess I'll have to dig a little deeper for a new bottom end now :-(

I'm really glad I did not install the new turbo yet. I'd be really crying the blues if I'd run metal shavings through the new turbo.

I'm sure I'll have questions on my bottom end build soon.
 
We got the engine out of the car and torn down today. It just does not look like an engine with only 23,000 miles. Every bearing (crank bearings, rod bearings and cam bearings) looked worn. There is wear in the cylinders and more than expected clearance between the piston and cylinder wall. There are some scratches in one or two cylinders (I cant remember now) but nothing really looks broke - just really worn.

I really don't know for sure why this wore like it did. I had a problem with spark plugs that opened up and jumped spark. That made horrible sounds and I backed off right away. I don't know if that caused the wear or the junk computer chips that were used back in the 90's that had way too much timing for 93 octane pump gas. Either way this thing is in desparate need of a rebuild now :-(

I guess I'd like to take advantage of a bad situation. As long as I'm rebuilding the short block I'd like to make some upgrades. I have been asking opinions on what should be upgraded and here is my list so far.

1. J&E Pistons

2. New oil pump/ timing cover

3. Center main caps

4 Clevite crank, rod, and cam bearings

Of course the block will need to have the cylinders bored and honed. With the new cap it will have to be line bored. The crank will have to be cleaned up, the heads will need to be inspected, and the rotating assembly will need to be rebalanced.

Am I missing anything?

I am told the stock crank and rods are worth keeping as long as they are in good condition. I though about getting the block girdled but have been told it is not worth doing unless I plan to go faster than 10.00 in the 1/4 mile. Any suggestion would be appreciated now. I really don't want to say "I should have done" something else later.

My plan is to upgrade the heads to aluminum champion heads in a couple of years. I was considering going to a roller setup at that time. Should I put a new tappet cam in now or just wait and put the roller cam in a couple years from now?

Thanks for the advice!

Eric
 
This is the kind of post that keeps me up at night. Wondering if I'm to suffer the same outcome as you have. Buying a low mileage car and finding it has lead a tough life and is worn out.

I feel and fear you pain, this is not a good way to start out your summer of what should have been fun.

Your observation of old 90's chip technology seems very plausible and if true I bet I will suffer the same fate one day. Sorry for your loss Eric...
 
SORRY FOR YOUR LOSS! If my motor was apart and you can afford it, go for the roller now, then you do not have to worry about oils and additives. the head swap will be that much eaiser than. Good Luck!
 
JSTTA said:
SORRY FOR YOUR LOSS! If my motor was apart and you can afford it, go for the roller now, then you do not have to worry about oils and additives. the head swap will be that much eaiser than. Good Luck!
Click to expand...

I agree..I will rebuild my motor one time and it will be an 8 second block that runs in the 10's at 20 psi. Should last a long time that way.

Pretty much what Chris is doing with this GN.

Of course I bet you are looking at 10k+..
 
sverble said:
I didn't know Champion was offering TTA aluminum heads? Any pics or web address?
Click to expand...

Hmm. I just assumed. I knew they made GN heads I just figured they must do TTA heads too. Now I have to start doing more research. I want to get everything done all at once but I have to watch the budget too. I feel comfortable spending around $3500 right now. I think that will get me a decent rebuild on the bottom end but does not allow money to convert the car to a full roller motor. I think the roller cam rockers etc would be around $1000. That would put me over budget for something I think I can just do later. How much would it really save me to do the roller parts and port the heads now vs later?
 
As usual my project is snowballing. Some of my parts are changing. My latest estimate includes:

1. RJC girdle over stock caps

2. Probe Forged Pistons

3. Scat H beam rods

4. Eagle Crank

5. Still updating front cover, HP oil pump, cleveite brearings, apr bolts, etc

Anyone have comments or suggestions? My engine builder is looking into the possibility of turning into a stroker. The stroker crank and rods are available but he wasn't sure about if he could get pistons for a reasonable price.

Thanks!
 
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