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0-60 time 6.5 secounds on my stock TTA!!!

The area I'm targeting is low 13a maybe break into the 12s in the 1/4 mile..I'm not looking to go crazy fast just a little better then stock..
 
I would say get it running right, and then install injectors and chip. See what that gets you. It should run mid 13's stock.
 
rlamas said:
The area I'm targeting is low 13a maybe break into the 12s in the 1/4 mile..I'm not looking to go crazy fast just a little better then stock..
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60's, chip, walbro 340 with hotwire kit, alky injection, and more boost and you have a 12 second car.
 
Ok ended up replacing the old injectors with stock new ones,replaced the O2 sensor,threw in a replacement K&N filter i could have done the cone style but im trying to keep that stock look to it..and changed the oil..

I do feel a better improvment staging the car off the line (stock torqe converter) now im having trouble with traction (breaking the tires loose)..is there any suspension mods that will keep the tires planted to the ground like kinda like GNX does.

Other issue if i DONT stage it and i punch the gas off the line the engine hesitates it wont break the tires loose then it just gets up and goes? is this normal? also when i crank the car to start it takes it a few secounds to start then it turns on from there on foward the car idles fine?
 
RatFink said:
The 60's seem big in comparison to the stock (28 or 33lbs) injectors, but TurboTweak creates a program that runs the big injector's duty cycle and pulse widths within the parameters that your specific engine combo will demand.
I'm guessing that your set-up is stock, you could probably run a set of 42lbs injectors (also sold on TurboTweaks web-site) and it would be a great improvement. The 42's would basically would be running at closer to their maximum capacity, where as the 60's would easily provide you with "room to grow".

What you need to ask yourself is how far do you want to go with your engine combo. His site has the 42.'s that are a little cheaper than the 60's which it says are currently out of stock. For reference, I ran a TE-44 turbo and 42's to 12.10's in the 1/4 on a 2.0 60ft. But I've since got the 60's and matching chip. Haven't ran the car yet, but I can testify that driveability and idle are as smooth or smoother than the stock injectors and chip.

http://www.turbotweakstore.com/SearchResults.asp?Cat=20
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what are your waiting on? :burnrubber: let us know how it does :thumbup:
 
Did you get a new chip yet?:poke:




You need good tires. You won't really be able to hook on the street even with slicks. Unless your testing or racing from 15-20mph already. M/T 255 50 16 are great but don't last long.



Your launching off vaccum for your second question. Your description would be normal.
 
Have not gotten a new chip..I actually need to get under there and take a look if it already has one , I found what appears to be the stock ship in my center console
 
rlamas said:
also when i crank the car to start it takes it a few secounds to start then it turns on from there on foward the car idles fine?
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I've had the same long cranking problem since the day I bought it. I've tried new crank sensor,tried playing with the air gap on it.Tried a new cam sensor,tried rotating the cam sensor window a little each way too.I've cleanded grounds,added grounds,new coil packs,new module.

In other pursuits I've replaced the injectors, the fuel pump, the regulator and even the injector harness.

I've run a couple different chips too and to this day it still cranks longer than I think it should before it "lights off"

The ONLY time it starts faster is if I give the pedal a little push as I crank it over and it'll light off right away....Living in a F.I. world it is hard to retrain my self to treat starting a car like a carburated car and giving the throttle a little kick before I start it....which I shouldn't have to.

So, I'm thinking it's one of two things, either there is something that can be altered in the start up part of the chip or maybe, the calpak chip is the culprit. I'm not sure but I thought the calpak contains fueling tables for 0-400 RPM's or start up circuit.

It chaps my ass that my car cranks for what seems like an eternity when other Turbo buicks fire right up in what seems like 1-2 crank rotations.
 
Yep if the car is running healthy there should be no reason the car wooden crank up right away ,could be a timing issue..just throwing that out there
 
Timing is ECM controlled...that is after 400 RPMs, before that it is fixed(also a function of the ECM).

I addressed that with the monkeying around of the crank position sensor, even the cam sensor, even though that's an injector timing issue.
 
Ws6 - I have the same issue with my car, but only when it is warmed up. It seems to have to crank a bit more than usual every now and then. But it runs perfect otherwise. I bought a new GM ignition module, and that did nothing, so now I have a perfect extra ignition module LOL! Anyway - I think I am going to let the problem be until it turns into something more permanent and easy to diagnose.
 
Ok, I finally got the chip from Turbo Tweak to match the 30lbs injectors I installed..I know I could have gotten the 45lbs or 60lbs but I wanted to keep it modest since this is my daily driver..also did the spring cleaning, WOW what a difference the idle is so much smother I'm starting to feel the power when I hit it, what would be the best street tire I could get so this car could hook up off the line?
 
rlamas said:
Ok, I finally got the chip from Turbo Tweak to match the 30lbs injectors I installed..I know I could have gotten the 45lbs or 60lbs but I wanted to keep it modest since this is my daily driver..also did the spring cleaning, WOW what a difference the idle is so much smother I'm starting to feel the power when I hit it, what would be the best street tire I could get so this car could hook up off the line?
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Nitto Drag radial. I think they make 2 versions. 1 isn't as aggressive as the newer model. I tried them. They aren't as good as the Mickey Thompson Drag Radial, but way better than the typical street radial. They wear pretty good for a soft compound tire.
 
Will the 255 fit the stock wheels? for the mean while is there any technics I can use to hook up off the line better I'm still riding on the kuhmo tires that came on the car when I bought it..this may be of the subject but there's a guy at work waiting to run me in his 2007 mustang gt, I know I can get him but I just spin the tires way to much off the line "rookie move" lol.
 
rlamas said:
Will the 255 fit the stock wheels? for the mean while is there any technics I can use to hook up off the line better I'm still riding on the kuhmo tires that came on the car when I bought it..this may be of the subject but there's a guy at work waiting to run me in his 2007 mustang gt, I know I can get him but I just spin the tires way to much off the line "rookie move" lol.
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I have the 255 MT DR on my rear wheels currently with no fitment issues. The Nittos are 245 and also had no fitment issues with them either.

I know of no technique to replace a good stall convertor, good brakes and tires that hook. With your current set-up, in a street race I would clean the tires off with a modest burn-out and then powerbrake it to about 2000 rpm and then roll into it. Hope your beat the Stang.

:burnrubber:
 
I would buy the M/T 255 50 16 again. We run 18#'s of air pressure on the street. They work well. However, you will have trouble hooking with any tire you choose on the street. I spin the M/T's launching off vaccum only, no boost. Try to race him from a roll of 20mph or so to 80-85mph. Be careful.
 
You should put 100 unleaded in the tank. Turn the boost up a few lbs and add timing. Watch your O2's and no knock! You should win.
 
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