Yes Jarred, I had a really hellish experience when building my first TurboBuick engine in 2010. And I wasn't inexperienced at engine building. I assembled 6 or 8 successful, moderately modified SBC engines for my Corvette and friends prior to that. I was counting on getting specific "Turbobuick" help and experience from that PA shop, but got misled left and right. It didn't help that I was also new to my local area in VA at the time - unfamiliar with good, local machine shops.
As long as you're tuned in, I also bought a used block at that PA shop and hauled it to a local machine (MS) shop in Manassas, VA. After a couple of months, the machine shop called to tell me that the matching main bearing caps had been switched with another block. Not possible to machine it to install the billet caps that I bought. Nothing to index on. So I went back to PA and made them give me another block. After 2 more months, the local MS finished. I paid them. As I was loading up, the guy said: "Be careful about the #2 main studs. One of them won't take torque". WHAAT? "It only takes torque to about 65 ft-lbs, then spins. That's the way we got it." Obviously the threads were stripped. So I asked MS if they could heli-coil it. "Nope. Buick saddles are too narrow." MS said: "Maybe you could have it welded, but we don't know what to do and we're just not interested in that sort of work...".
I was 4 to 6+ months into getting the car moving again, so just had to put it together like that. I figured that SBCs use 65 ft-lbs for main bearing cap torque and they produce 350 or so hp. So if I kept the boost down, I could at least put the car on the road. That philosophy has worked so far - allowed me to use the car for 10 years now - using no more than 17 psi. However, in a couple of months, I'm tearing it down to finally make it right. The local machine shop down here in FL said that they would do whatever it takes to make that stud hold. Better days are coming...