tta #22 back on the street

from full cage race ready to street friendly sleeper

pulled the stroker stage 2 V6 w stage 2 heads and 4" downpipe , th400
in went an 800hp 109 from my 10.0 bracket GN and temporarily a th400 because it was setup for it
reprogrammed the FAST for the new motor and 93 alky and then parked it for over a month
managed to get couple breaks in weather to get back to it
removed the 28-10 sicks and popped on some 245 bfg kdws
replaced the gold bird center caps with WS6 caps
replaced the old spoiler with a fiberglass repop (painted it basecoat)
cut out the roll cage front bars - replaced dash top and removed all previous gauges ,
cut out the roll cage main hoop and rear bars to put the OE seat belts back in after redoing the headliner
removed all the aftermarket audio equipment and wiring
redid dash harness for 22pin radio and installed a delco radio and new plate
removed momo wheel and installed stock GTA radio control wheel
pulled steering bowl to remove a 80s theft collar
then built a 3" external gate downpipe so i could move it around
got it back on the lift and tied it into the 4" cat back..too loud for me
pulled the mufflex 4" cat back and installed a stainless spohn 3" dual outlet cat back
removed noisy weldon 2015 pump and installed a quiet 255lph walbro inline (380lph going in soon)
pulled the hurst quarter stick shifter and installed a stock shifter setup which worked for the th400
reinstalled factory leather shift knob and boot
restored the factory neutral start wiring and backup lamp switch on shifter
fixed the high mount brake lamp with a new hatch flipper contact pad
moved the battery from spare tire well back to under the hood with new cables
put in a razor dual nozzle alky kit , new reservoir bucket and heat blanket
got the chance to do some more so pulled the th400 and popped in 2004r ,changed the slip yoke on the 1350 3.5 driveshaft
installed derale thermo controlled fan cooler under driver seat with 6AN hoses
cleaned up some paint stuff and then installed the pace decals on doors and windshield
and finished up exhaust by making and welding on some custom stainless 3" inlet dual outlet tips like the originals

with hood down walking around car theres really no giveaway about whats underneath except the long 1/2 studs at rear wheels which i plan to replace with short 12mm studs


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Super Moderator
That red car looks awfully weird, probably not nearly as fast as the white and black ones.

Excellent work, always nice to see cars get resurrected and to have another TTA back on the road.


Well-Known Member
Wow what a great build and an even more impressive collection! Thanks for a the details! great pics too! Post a pic in my thread on owning both TTA and GN's. It will resurect the thread for the season.
update 8/23
cut down the 1/2 rear axle studs
redid the under car exhaust with a flexpipe like OE but in 3"stainless and added a cat
repainted underhood cowl and latch plate
repainted the rear wing
put led lamps into the hi mount brake light under spoiler
replaced the missing fog lamp and replaced the old one
removed the custom becool radiator , it had no internal trans cooler and wasn't keeping it cool .. 195 with a 160 stat and fans on
installed an oe radiator (cu750), kept the spal fans it runs 165-170
removed the 6an derale fan trans cooler and ran new stainless trans cooler lines to radiator with a large auxillary trans cooler
now working on getting the a/c back in
removed the ac delete box and installed a/c box from an 87 bird with new 89-91 evaporator core
cut up the custom ss 3" external downpipe and rebuilt it to allow for the ac box (still have buick 8445 iron heads and ta perf race headers)
removed the ac delete pulley and installed a new ac compressor
installed a new spectra condenser core


Fairly confident that the a/c lines from a 2.8L V6 firebird are the same as TTA except for the heat insulation is not being there on the regular V6 lines.
i had assumed that as well from from the pics i saw and i have a set of hoses to compressor from a 87 firebird 2.8 which is where i pulled the ac box from .. but those lines dont work , the 2.8 set has the hoses coming off the manifold on the bottom which doesnt work with the TTA accessory bracket ,(i added apic of the 2.8L mnifold) the tta needs them to come out from the top .. the 86 5.0tpi hose set worked and although its not correct appearing it was cheap at 63bucks shipped from rock auto . it connected nicely to compressor with a just little bending outward of the high side line to clear the flat bracket at front of compressor.
connection to evap and condensor worked fine too
the high pressure 2.8 fluid line from the evap core to condensor appears to be the same part used on the tta , there is a new repro of that line but at 85+55 for ship i thought id look for something cheaper
i found a fluid line from a 97 s10 2.2l that has a r134 high side port and a schrader for the fan switch and i plan to rebend it to fit . at 22 bucks shipped if it doesnt work no big deal
if i was after a concourse restoration i'd be a little more picky on the appearance but right now im after functioning a/c from a previous a/c delete


Thanks for clearing that up about the 2.8L lines. I had a n/a V6 car I scrapped a while back and I remember thinking the lines might work on a TTA but forgot to compare them before throwing them out since I did not need them.
the s10 line didnt work out , the fitting for the condenser is too big , for now i put a GN line there , might try to spice the right end on
ac is working so for now the lines i used will do
i could redo the accumulator low side hose using the aluminum tube end from the 2.8 hose set to look more stock ,and could get correct the hi pressure line with the ports but for now its nice to be able to drive windows up

prev owner cut off the compressor plugs for hi cut switch and clutch , couldnt easily locate the cutoff end so for now i ran a/c compressor connectors froma gn wiring harness directly to the clutch relay at firewall (pin d and ground to firewall)
had to do some wiring for the clutch relay to work because is still running the old classic FAST w/ fastrack adapter which doesnt support a/c control like the oem ecu does. its missing the connection for ac commond signal and ac clutch relay control . the stock ecu controls ac engagement by disconnecting the ground to ac relay at WOT (based on tps )
to make wot disconnect i spliced a hobbs switch to the clutch relay ground from pin B through hobbs to ground) which allows the clutch to work when the cycle switch closes and also allows the hobb to cut the ground to relay under boost so the compressor disengages at wot

had to get creative using the gn hi side fluid line because it doesnt have ports for the fan control switch or for checking hi side pressure
the fans need to operate when ac comp is engaged or the high side pressures will be extremely high due to no air flow across condensor
ended up splicing in a relay to the switched side of the clutch cycle switch so when active the relay grounds the fan control wire . fans operate when the a/c is engaged (have dual spals and currently both run when commanded on low speed relay)

changed out the basically straight 4" cold air inlet pipe while i was at it for a curvy one



fuel system closer to oe now .
old tank had rust inside from sitting for years that was clogging the areomotive external filter
also had a bad sender that read above 1/2 tank when it was near empty
and OE hanger was modified with a 1/2 " pickup tube for external pump so all had to go

all AN lines, filters and external pump removed
made steel lines on motor like the OE with saginaw ends
repaired the cut off steel return and vent lines under car to the tank so it could connect like OE was
with saginaw on the feed side , put back the OE filter in stock bracket
put an emission canister back under the hood so vent is filtered through charcoal
replaced the fuel tank , hanger sender and put a reds xp+ pump in the tank

the intank XP+ pump will limit the peak HP of this combo but should still be capable of 700+ with the alky


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